Born from a distinctive perception of elegance, the Octo is a perfect illustration of Bulgari’s Italian design flair and expertise in creating fascinating-shaped watches. Right from its introduction in 2012, its faceted, octagonal case has imposed its strength and personality becoming an instant classic. With a modernized design and materials for 2018, here is the Bulgari Octo l’Originale Velocissimo Chronograph.
When thinking Vacheron, you usually have in mind complex watches, Haute-Horlogerie, rare handcrafts and a unique sense of precious elegance. Not a single word here that relates to the notion of affordability. However, the deal is about the change. Indeed, the brand developed a whole new strategy (already started with the Quai de L’Ile in steel), by introducing an entry-level collection, the Vacheron Constantin FIFTYSIX. New movements, some even without the costly Hallmark of Geneva, new design, and a sub-10,000 starting price… Promising? Let’s have a first look.
Last year, at the SIHH 2017, Ulysse Nardin introduced an impressive piece, a concept watch featuring no less than 10 major innovations, as a showcase to demonstrate the brand’s savoir-faire: the InnoVision 2. Every part of this watch boasted an innovation, whether the escapement, the display, the winding system or even the hands. And while last year’s piece wasn’t meant to be commercialized, it is now time for Ulysse Nardin to deploy some of these features into serially produced pieces… Meet the Ulysse Nardin Freak Vision.
Laurent Ferrier presents its fifth in-house calibre, and as something unprecedented for the brand features an annual calendar complication. A natural heir to the brand’s signature design ethos of smooth, rounded surfaces, vintage-inspired themes, and minimalist dials, the Galet Annual Calendar Montre École brings user-friendliness, legibility and steady mechanical performance to one of the most useful complications in a watch.
After introducing several editions of the Portugieser (including this superb automatic chronograph or a constant force tourbillon) as well as an unexpected yet desirable “Tribute to Pallweber” watch, IWC continues to deploy its 150-year concept of limited editions inside all its collections – and today we move into Pilot’s watches. Meet the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Edition “150 Years” ref. 5105, the first Flieger watch of the brand with a big date display.
A. Lange & Sohne has introduced another iteration of its classic 1815 Chronograph this year at SIHH, now cased in warm 18ct pink gold but still with the same iconic pulsation dial. Considered by many to be the ultimate expression of a purist chronograph, these latest versions will be sure to strike a chord with collectors, who now find themselves literally spoilt for choice. Will it be the distinctive and powerful black dial or the equally elegant yet slightly more understated argenté dial? Perhaps one of each? We can dream.
As all industries, the watchmaking world is subject to trends. One that we’re not unhappy to see resurfacing is ultra-thin watches. Piaget opened the show in December with the thinnest automatic watch, followed at the SIHH 2018 by the thinnest mechanical ever created (2mm thick, no less). It is now time for Audemars Piguet to come on board and demonstrate, if ever necessary, that they know a bit about watchmaking. Here is the Royal Oak RD#2, which at a staggering 6.30mm thick is the thinnest self-winding perpetual calendar on the market today.
Looking at recent collections by Montblanc, one series of watches clearly created a strong interest amongst the collecting community. You name it; the Minerva-inspired Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymetre and its superb (to say the least) hand-wound Monopusher movement. One not-so-superfluous problem though with these watches… Their prices. Well, if you like the Military- and vintage-inspired Minerva chronographs and if you have a normal budget, MB has the solution at the SIHH 2018: the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph.
As the modern incarnation of the very first luxury-sports watch created in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202 needs no introduction anymore. Its octagonal shape, its screwed bezel, its integrated chain-like bracelet, its extra-thin automatic movement, its finely guilloched blue dial… Everything in this watch is iconic. Well, for the SIHH 2018, there’s a new version, and don’t be fooled by the familiar look, it has much more secrets than you would expect at first. Please meet the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202IP – and yes it is titanium and it has a superb and unprecedented smoked blue dial.
Jaeger-LeCoultre is well-known by watch enthusiasts, especially when it comes to dress watches or elegant timepieces – think Reverso or Master Ultra-Thin. Yet, in terms of sports watches, the situation is rather different. JLC never really achieved to create the definitive collection – now more than ever, as the Master Compressor collection is discontinued. For the SIHH however, things are changing with the introduction of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris 2018 Collection… A sports watch collection, which is JLC all the way.<