Exploring the Longines Skin Diver Watch
Editor’s note: Last night, Longines went live with their online shopping facility, and I’ve spent a bit of time browsing what’s on offer. And it should come as no surprise that I’m pretty into the ‘heritage’ section of the site. And one watch, which I saw last year and was really taken by, is the Longines Skin Diver. So I thought the timing was right for another look … Longines heritage reissues are — much like the designs they’re inspired by — the stuff of legend. And speaking of legends, you might notice that the dial design of the Skin Diver resembles that of the Legend, with distinctive hand sets and long hour and minute markers. That’s because both watches trace their origin back to the Nautilus Skin Diver, Longines’ first dive watch. But while the Legend has an internal bezel, the bezel here is very much your traditional bezel, and black to boot. This, combined with the creamy-toned printing and rich, almost pebbly dial texture (offered on either a tropic-style rubber or Milanese mesh) adds up to a watch that more than lives up to its heritage. Also, you’ll be happy to note: no date window. Longines Skin Diver…
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Longines has had a big few months in Australia. They opened their first Melbourne boutique a little while back, on Collins Street in the heart of the city’s luxury district. And now their watches are available online, direct from the brand. It’s something that would have been unimaginable even a few years ago — a major Swiss brand, selling directly online. But it’s 2019 and the future is digital. Well, except for the watches, that is — they’re resolutely analogue, and proudly mechanical. In celebration of this upcoming e-commerce launch, Andrew dropped into the boutique to choose his picks that are now available online. It’s worth noting that some of the hot models will only be available online or in boutiques. But, without any further ado, here’s Andrew’s top three … Longines Master Collection Moonphase Is there anything more romantic than the moon (phase)? Well, maybe there is, but this is about as close as it gets, especially when you factor in that dreamy blue dial. Longines Heritage Flagship Heritage looks and a sweet case size. It’s easy to see why this little beauty was a winner. Longines Record Two tones, classic style and COSC accuracy. It’s easy to see why…
We’re now more than halfway through our flyover of the various families in the IWC Pilot’s family — we’ve covered off Top Gun and the Spitfire, but now we’re hitting the Classics. As you might expect given the classic moniker, the Classic family is, well, classic. Based strongly on the original military-era pilots, these watches form the core of the collection, and are all about simplicity, function and legibility. Andrew picked out two key models from the line and, in some ways, they’re polar opposites, even though the visual similarities are very strong. The IWC Big Pilot’s watch Large, and very much in charge, the IWC Big Pilot is truly an icon. With its hefty seven days of power reserve and a crown that stands out from a mile away. Not that the 46.2mm case is in any way shy. The IWC Pilot’s watch Mark XVIII In stark contrast to the bold Big Pilot, the Mark XVIII is the definition of a perfect all-rounder: timeless style in a well-sized 40mm case, and a truly great black calf strap. It’s a winner. Made in partnership with IWC. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.
There’s always one that started it all. The first taste that starts the passion. Like the first dunk that lit the flame in Jordan’s heart. The first moment Phelps touched the end of a pool and knew he loved to win. Or the first piece in your collection that opened your eyes to the variety and complexity involved in the pursuit of good watches. For Jean-Paul, this was his first. A stunning Breitling Transocean ref. 1461 semi-perpetual calendar, that he picked up on his honeymoon in New York City. After four visits to the Wempe boutique, he decided to pull the trigger, and hasn’t looked back since. The fact that you can put this many complications in a watch that small, and it’s also a watch you don’t see every day. I’m very happy with it. Wear it in good health, Jean-Paul.
In case you’re not familiar with Seiko’s Prospex line, it’s a venerable series of ‘professional specification’ watches that are made with a purpose. It’s a long-running series full of iconic divers with colourful names like the Turtle and the Tuna Can. Baselworld 2019 bore witness to what is perhaps the boldest iteration of the collection yet — the Prospex LX collection. The same sense of purpose is there, but so too is a level of finish that’s uncommon in the Seiko line. Prospex LX is top-tier stuff, with Spring Drive movements and case finishing that we’re far more used to seeing under the Grand Seiko name. With this higher level of execution comes a higher price tag. One that makes sense given the overall quality, but one that Seiko fans are unaccustomed to nonetheless. We already looked at the collection as a whole at Basel, but today we want to drill down into the three blacked-out versions … Seiko Prospex LX SNR031 The ‘safest’ of the trio is this Marine Master-esque diver. The bulk and blackness of the watch is offset by a clean dial layout and a water-ready silicon strap. RRP $8500 AUD Seiko Prospex LX SNR027 In contrast to…
Brand boutiques are pretty fun spots to visit as a watch lover. Because, choice. And it may surprise you to learn that Tissot very nearly has a boutique for every single day of the year — 361, in fact, including this shiny new example in MidCity Shopping Centre in Pitt Street Mall. It will house by far the largest Tissot collection in Australia, something that was on show to us immediately, when we spotted two lesser-seen models in the first few minutes. You’ll have to watch the video to see what we’re referring to there. Another fact that tends to surprise about Tissot is the sheer volume of watches the brand sells globally. Here’s one to drop at your next dinner party: the Swatch Group brand claim to account for one in every four ‘traditional’ (which we might read to be mechanical) Swiss-made watches sold. But sales are just one part of the equation here. The Sydney Boutique will also house an on-site Watch Technician to support in-store watch repairs. Tissot has not offered a direct customer service offering in Sydney since 2012 — it will specialise in pressure testing watches, battery replacements, link and strap adjustments, performance testing and cleaning. TISSOT Boutique Store,…
Following on from last week’s look at the Top Gun collection, Andrew sets his sights on the heritage-inspired Spitfire collection. This year saw the Spitfire step up its status from an occasional silver-dialled offering to a fully formed collection in its own right. Gone are the silver dials of the past, replaced with either handsome black and steel, or a particularly warm bronze and olive green. The bronze alloy is not the bright bronze that you might expect, and already has a world-worn feel that plays well with the military-inspired olive green dial. The other standout feature of this collection is the fact that it is powered completely by in-house movements. Some of them are quite cool, like the UTC and the Timezoner, whereas others are a little simpler — such as the regular automatic. We found ourselves drawn to two models in particular. IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire This well-sized 41mm chronograph epitomises everything that’s great about a pilot’s watch, in an exceptionally cool bronze case. The fact that it’s rocking the in-house 69000 calibre only makes it sweeter. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire We’ve saved the best (or at least the biggest) till last. This Big…
Fun fact: TAG Heuer is the largest Swiss producer of tourbillons. It’s a statement that if made a decade ago would have emitted oh-so-Swiss snickers of disbelief in the rarefied halls of Baselworld or SIHH. Tourbillons, according to the narrative, are the epitome of hand-crafting — tiny components that take precious hours to intricately assemble. But here we are in 2019, and TAG Heuer has upset the applecart with its CNC-produced tourbillon, which offers the same visceral, whirling coolness at a price that — while still clocking in at five figures — is, what market analysts would say, aggressively competitive. And while the Heuer 02T tourbillon has been around for a while now, the newest darling is the very impressive Nanograph, which serves as a heroic standard-bearer for TAG Heuer’s carbon alternative to silicon technology. Watch on to check out our picks of the current collection. TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Pairing black steel and matt ceramic, this TAG Heuer tourbillon offers all the hi-tech you could want, with a pleasingly warm brown calf strap. RRP $22,050 TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Carbon If you want even less weight and more futuristic-ness, how about a Heuer 02T clad in…
IWC is famous for their pilot’s watches, and rightfully so — they’re instantly recognisable and a genuinely iconic modern design. And while the design born in the middle of last century was for a very specific purpose — as a navigational tool for aviators — the passing of time has seen the collection grow and evolve. Today, IWC’s pilot’s family consists of four distinct sub-collections: Spitfire, the Saint Exupéry watches, the Classics, and the boldly modern Top Gun selection. Over the next four weeks we’re going to explore each of these groups in detail, kicking off with Top Gun. Top Gun, named for the Naval Air Station school in Miramar, is where IWC’s pilot’s watches look to the future. The collection is heavy on chronographs, with dark, modern aesthetics, and in more high-tech materials than elsewhere in the line-up. Andrew visited the brand’s Melbourne boutique to inspect three models in more detail. IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceratanium This 44mm watch made a big impression when it was released at SIHH this year. And not just because the double chronograph is a famous complication for IWC, but because of the novel use of Ceratanium, an alloy of titanium and…
Jonathon did not buy this watch — a stylish Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic — instead, he managed to convince his grandfather to relinquish it. It was the first watch Jonathon remembers seeing and noticing that it was a *nice* watch (and honestly, it’s easy to see why). Now, it’s one thing to notice your grandfather’s watch and admire it from afar, but it’s another thing entirely to fully migrate it from his wrist to your own. But as we discovered in the latest instalment of Every Watch Tells a Story, Jonathon’s approach was surprisingly direct. I said to him, “Hey, that’s a nice watch, I don’t see you wearing it that often — I’d be very happy to take it off you and wear it for you. And he was like … sure, if you’ll wear it more, it’s yours.” The coda to the story, though, is that the watch needed a service, and with that came a case polish, which meant that the dings and marks of a life well-lived disappeared, and while Jonathon was initially disheartened at this erasure of identity, in the end he came to the realisation that it’s now his watch, and one he can put…