VIDEO: This is what Tudor’s 3 top 2019 releases look like on the wrist
It’s testament to the power and ongoing evolution of Tudor’s blue-chip Black Bay family that our top three picks from Baselworld 2019 are all Black Bays, and also — from a distance at least — look very different indeed. Without a doubt, the most discussed and most genuinely novel watch of the bunch (and perhaps of the whole fair) is the Black Bay P01. While the dial bears a lot of the hallmarks of the Black Bay, the case is Something. Else. Entirely. Long, with a blocky crown guard at four, and a steel bi-directional 12-hour bezel that’s held in place by the articulated bracelet end link at 12. I’m pretty sure absolutely no one saw this coming, and people are taking their time to get used to the concept. I will say though, this watch is very comfy on the wrist. The other two watches are far more conventional offerings. The slate grey-dialled Black Bay Bronze replaces the brown version, and the new colour (and the fact that it’s shaded) certainly adds plenty of drama and contrast to the watch. And then there’s the Black Bay Chrono S&G, which adds some flash to the Chrono, and a more sophisticated profile to…
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In the weeks and days leading up to Basel, the tension, speculation and near-hysteria around Rolex’s impending releases is palpable, and this year was no different. And while the popular predictions in the lead-up to Baselworld 2019 were the usual mix of near misses and safe guesses, that didn’t stop the Rolex watches — especially the sports watches — from being the most talked-about pieces of the fair. The Yacht-Master on Oysterflex has, since its debut in 2015, been one of the most distinctively modern models, with its matt cerachrom bezel and understated bracelet. This year saw two significant changes to the model. Firstly, it was offered in white gold, which only adds to the under-the-radar appearance; secondly, it’s bigger than ever, with a 42mm case — both these elements have been generally well received in the Halls. And then there’s the new version of the GMT-Master BLNR. It’s packing the new 3285 calibre, which means a new case. It’s also got a new Jubilee strap, giving the Batman a whole new look. But the real story here is the news that all steel GMT-Masters are only available on Jubilee, and that all GMT-Masters with a single colour bezel (i.e.…
TAG Heuer’s Basel 2019 collection had a particularly clear focus, and that focus was Autavia. It’s a watch inspired by TAG Heuer’s enviable heritage — Autavia is a combination of automotive and aviation, and dates back to when Heuer was making cockpit timers in the 1930s. This latest version is a clear nod to the past, without being a fully blown reissue. It’s got details to boot too, like Arabic numerals made from solid blocks of luminous material, a series in subtle rich colours that, thanks to their texture and airbrushed finish, are eye-catching and interesting. The insides are also notable, thanks to TAG Heuer’s brand new Isograph technology — the hairspring is made using the proprietary carbon process the brand first showed us in January on the Tourbillon Nanograph. That watch was on hand, too (and did not disappoint the second time around). For women, there was a bunch of new Carreras on offer — and it’s easy to see the appeal of this crisp design paired with a shimmering mother-of-pearl dial. And finally, there’s the Modular Connected Golf Edition, made for people who care about their putting game. TAG Heuer Autavia TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph…
On the off chance that you’re not, Ulysse Nardin is a brand you should be paying attention to. There’s a real energy around the Le Locle-based manufacture – all the burners are firing. And while one of the brand’s most discussed 2019 releases – the exquisitely painted sexy mermaid pieces of the Classico Manara series — is *too rude* for T+T, there’s still plenty of other, less X-rated horology to discuss. Like the new Freak X, a technically toned down take on their iconic rebel that still delivers high impact with less of a hit to the hip pocket. And then there’s the Skeleton X, a modern skeletonised piece that’s technical and cool, especially in the Carbonium case. Finally, if you’re after something a little more everyday and tool-like, there’s a stylish new diver, which offers enough twists on the classic genre to make it worth a second (and third) look. As recently as a few years ago it seemed like Ulysse Nardin was all at sea, but 2019’s tight, focused collection proves the brand is full steam ahead and ready for anything. 
Visiting the team at H. Moser & Cie. is always one of the highlights of SIHH. You never quite know what you’re going to get. Well, that’s not quite true. You know you’re going to be in for some surprises. And seeing Moser at SIHH 2019 did not disappoint. We knew about the Nature Watch, and that statement piece (literally, it was all about the statement of the watch industry’s environmental obligations) did not disappoint in real life (again, literally). Another high-level statement that impressed in real life was the exceptionally minimal Swiss Alp Concept Black — I just shudder to think about setting the time. Really, though, the watches that excited me were the more commercially oriented pieces, like the Pioneer with its ruggedised take on the tourbillon, and the (as always) exceptional dial on the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon, which certainly lives up to its name. 
Sports tie-in watches play a — if you’ll pardon the pun — dangerous game. On the one hand there’s a lot of gloss (and potential sales) to be earned from the association with an event that’s under the spotlight. The downside, though, is you might end up with a watch that looks more like a souvenir than a fine piece of precision engineering. This Rado HyperChrome Match Point walks this line just fine. To most casual — and even closer — viewers, it’s a regular Rado chronograph, complete with the high-tech ceramic case and bracelet so synonomous with Rado, as well as a particularly handsome brushed blue dial and some nice raised, applied Arabic numerals. But look very closely and you’ll notice the subtlest tennis detail on the dial — that outer track is marked with a scale specifically calibrated for the time between points in ATP and Grand Slam games. Now, if that’s not a detail for the real fans, I don’t know what is. Rado HyperChrome Match Point Australian pricing and availability Rado HyperChrome Match Point, limited to 999 pieces, $6475
If you’re looking for a watch that’s a little left-of-centre style-wise, look no further. Rado’s idiosyncratic DiaMaster takes many of the conventions of fine watchmaking and turns them, if not on their heads, at least a little bit sideways. And the resulting watch is, it must be said, quite charming. Of course, there are still some familiar Rado hallmarks on display, like the high-tech ceramic case. There’s also an ever-reliable automatic movement that isn’t content to be relegated to the caseback, instead taking centre stage on the dial side — to great effect. The case is hefty, at 43mm, and rated to 100 metres, which is a nice touch. There are four different variations on the theme, but we were most taken by this black-on-black option. Rado DiaMaster XL Automatic Australian pricing Rado DiaMaster XL Automatic, black ceramic case, $3850
If you had any doubts about Panerai’s position as kings of the deep, their SIHH 2019 release catalogue would have dispelled them. Panerai’s hero watch is, of course, the Submersible. It’s one of the brand’s most interesting designs, as it honours their historically important case shape (cushiony, with a fairly famous crown guard), while adding a very handy bezel and some more contemporary lines. This year sees Panerai tweak a few more details, playing more with smaller sizes and interesting case materials. Here are our top picks. Panerai Submersible Carbotech 42mm – PAM00960 Carbotech is, without a doubt, a cool material, and you know what, it’s still just as cool in a smaller 42mm case. Panerai Submersible 42mm – PAM00959 This is a more classical Panerai execution, with its steel case. But even here there’s something quite special — the pebbly, grainy grey dial that somehow reminds me of shark skin. Panerai Submersible BMG-Tech 47mm – PAM00799 Just quietly, this might be my pick of the bunch. It’s big, and it’s also very complex. Not only is the bezel Carbotech, but the case is made from Panerai’s fancy BMG-Tech material. And that makes for a pretty awesome combo.
Since Davide Cerrato took the gig as Montblanc’s top watch guy, the brand’s timepiece offerings have been steadily ramping up, becoming more focused and more appealing. To my mind, Montblanc’s SIHH 2019 saw the brand in high gear, on the inside track and with the intensity of a winner. Two hero collections and a range of watches to appeal to a wide range of tastes. Here are our five picks. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere LE Last year’s complicated two timer was already a good-looking beast of a watch, and this year the Geosphere’s gone green, making it even more Hulk-like. Montblanc 1858 Chronograph While it might not have the same incredible engine as its Minerva brethren, the 1858 Chronograph, with its bronze case and mossy green dial, is one undeniably attractive piece of kit. Montblanc Heritage Automatic While the 1858 family was all about the green, the freshly minted Heritage line is looking dapper with its copper-y salmon colourways. Add to that the complex dial construction and you’ve got a winning proposition on your hands. Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar Montblanc’s meteoric re-emergence into serious watchmaking was its aggressively priced QP. Since then, it’s become a staple of the collection, and this…