VIDEO: 10 things you’ve always wanted to know about Grand Seiko, but were too afraid to ask …
I’m sure everyone reading this has, at some point, felt that feeling of utter bewilderment of being in a conversation about watches. The level of technical jargon, slang and verbal shorthand can be confusing at best and exclusionary at worst — it can feel like a club with its very own secret language. And the hardest thing is that the language changes with every brand. Take Grand Seiko, for instance — you have to get your head around reference numbers, specific nomenclature and calibres, not to mention the vast and colourful world of fan-based nicknames. But don’t worry, today we’re here to help you crack the code. If you’ve ever been confused about what makes Grand Seiko so grand, why everyone keeps talking about Snowflakes and Spring Drives, or what a Credor is, watch this video and all will be explained …
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This video is all about value. Not only do you get two watch reviews (we’re covering Tissot’s dressy Everytime Swissmatic as well as the sportier V8 Swissmatic), but both watches represent a solid value proposition. The style of these two watches is a pretty by-the-book interpretation of daily dress/sport, depending on which flavour you plumb for, but the Swissmatic movements are something else. Based on the revolutionary Sistem51 from Swatch, the Swissmatics share the same fundamental specs and architecture, but benefit from a more robust — and a completely automated – build. These watches might not have the high finishing that Justin extolled in his recent piece, but they possess an industrial charm all their own, and are, I think, a great way to get into the joys of a mechanical watch. A Swiss one at that. Tissot Swissmatic Australian pricing Tissot Everytime Swissmatic, $725, Tissot V8 Swissmatic $650
Often the best watches are those that come with a story attached. Sometimes that story can be attached to momentous events or achievements the watch is associated with, or the accomplishments of those who wore it. It can also be a story of how it’s made and who it’s made by. Such is the case with Seiko’s latest additions to their Presage collection — the limited edition Shippo Enamel watches. The form of these watches will be familiar to those who have come across the Presage line before, with its elongated Roman numerals and classical hands. This version, the SPB073, also sports a power reserve and date subdial to keep things interesting but, honestly, the texture of the dial itself is so good, it doesn’t need anything superfluous. As the name suggests, the dial is made using Shippo enamel, a technique that dates back to 17th century Japan, and involves several layers of blue enamel being applied and fired, to build a rich, deep colour over the guilloché base — which really shines after a final polish. The dials are all hand done by a craftsman named Wataru Totani. The results are deeply beautiful. But more than that, they make…
This is such a great watch. Honestly. I can’t think of many (if any) Swiss-made watches that offer such a punchy package for this sort of price. Not only do you get the impressive Powermatic 80 movement (more than three days of power reserve rocks) in a good-looking, well-made 300m diver, you get nice little features like the gradient dial and ceramic bezel. So much win. On top of that, it fits great on the wrist: 43mm is big, but not obnoxiously so, especially when paired with the height. Even the dial text and date placement is done right. My only possible quibble is the strap. Not the rubber strap itself, which I quite like — Tissot ‘T’ motif and all — no, it’s the slightly odd 21mm width. Given that I’m the kind of guy who likes chopping and changing straps as often as my mood, the uncommon width is a little bit of a buzzkill. But then, for the price, it’s hard to be too harsh with this little gem. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Australian pricing Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80, steel on rubber, $1000
It started with a conversation. Two guys shooting the breeze. One of them, the Omega Museum Director, Petros Protopapas; the other, a publisher of content about watches — me. We were in Sydney, at the launch of the Australian flagship boutique in Martin Place, which is incidentally the largest Omega boutique in the world. I remember it was a beautiful summer’s day that was on the verge of becoming a midsummer night’s dream, starring Cindy Crawford and a harbourside mansion. An idea was forming about staging a “night at the museum”, at the Omega Museum, in Biel, Switzerland, opposite the ever-expanding Omega manufacture. Perhaps it was the cinematic ring to the name, “night at the museum”, but it caught the ear of Omega President Raynald Aeschlimann. Or that we’ve done two similar events in the past. First, the ‘Night of Omega firsts’. And then, ‘Her Journey Through Time‘, both starring Petros, who is an electric, eclectic M.C. “We should do this,” Mr Aeschlimann said. “We should definitely do this.” True to form, 18 months later, we did indeed. This time last week, to the minute just about, Omega invited a small number of international media, collectors and guest-speakers — around 30 in…
Regular readers will be unsurprised to learn that we’re card-carrying fans of Moser’s Pioneer line here in the T+T office. Not only does it offer a dressed-down, somewhat less aristocratic option to the Moser family, but it also adds the joy of a steel case. Because while gold is very nice indeed, sometimes you’re happy to ditch the heft and shine in favour of something a little more hard wearing. Now, though, we’re in something of a quandary – blue or green? It was a simpler time when there was but one Pioneer Centre Seconds, with its luscious blue dial. But, with the addition of this Cosmic Green dial, we’re spoiled for choice. The green is somewhat more outré than the blue, and wouldn’t look out of place in the Emerald City. It’s certainly not a watch you’ll miss on the wrist – the large case size, incredible fumé finish and the vibrancy of the green ensure that. The original Pioneer is the slightly more conservative older brother to the funkier, fresher Cosmic Green. So really, at the end of the day it comes down to personal preference and mood. In the time I’ve been writing this, I’ve been trying…
Where there’s smoke there’s fire. There’s a lot of truth to that saying, especially if we’re talking about H. Moser & Cie’s famous smoky fumé dials — the latest batch of watches they’re attached to are straight up fire. Take, for example, the Venturer Small Seconds XL Purity. The dial-heavy 43mm watch definitely lives up to its XL name, but it’s with those sparse markings in case-matching red gold and the awesome rhodium dial. It’s one of the most beautiful objects we’ve seen in a while. Of course, Moser’s star power went stratospheric a few years ago when they wittily riffed on the Apple Watch with their app-less Alp Watch. It’s since become a staple, and this year sees them add some serious complication in the form of a minute repeater, and (yet another) incredible dial. Other standouts include the smart Endeavour Flying Hours, one of the indie hits of SIHH, as well as the new, cosmic green interpretation of their steel hero, the Pioneer. Moser’s 2018 collection is coming to town next week (Sydney and Melbourne — sorry, other towns), and I can’t wait to have another look at these (very) rare beauties.
Perhaps it’s just the football, but we’ve got Hublot on the brain at the moment. And while the Referee watch, with its smart interface and snazzy, over the sweatband look — as rocked by FIFA’s refs — is a winner, it’s not the only one in their arsenal. There’s Big Red, which is what I’ve nicknamed the franky epic red ceramic Big Bang, a watch you need to see to really appreciate. But even if you don’t, take it from us that the shade of red is awesome, and awesomely hard to develop. And then there’s a slightly smaller Bang — the 42mm take on the classic Big Bang. These two watches are pretty classic takes on the famous Hublot shape, but there’s also a Spirit of Big Bang that’s seemingly made entirely of sapphire and precious stones, and then there’s the wrist-sized artworks that are the latest Orlinski collabs. All told, Hublot’s 2018 collection is Hublot doing what Hublot does best: material innovation and unbeatable statements.
One of the things I love most in watches is when a brand challenges my preconceptions. That’s exactly what happened in Jaquet Droz’s Basel booth earlier this year. I was surrounded by writing machines, jewelled butterflies, automata of all shapes and sizes (well, not really, but you get my point), and then BAM! I saw the Skelet-One. I mean, sure, technically it’s part of the Grande Seconde family (just like the Tribute), but to my mind it’s aggressive modernity meets classical proportion and peerless finish. A seductive mix, indeed. In and of itself the skeletonisation is very cool, but the real deal-sealer is the sapphire subdial. Not only does it look like the titular seconds hand is floating on air, it allows maximum light into that golden case, to great effect. Minimal dial. Maximum impact. Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Australian Pricing Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One, $44,950.