Watch Dandy

One of the upsides of a pretty challenging 2020 was that while it reinforced the tyranny of distance we feel from the industry we’re a part of (international flights, cancelled), oddly enough it also brought us closer than we’ve ever been to overseas friends, industry leaders and freelancers. Personally, I’ve never spoken to more CEOs in one year. We zoomed in to boardrooms, bedrooms, and even Jean-Claude Biver’s atrium to stay in touch with what was going on. And on the freelancer front, with Zoom video conferencing totally de rigeur for team meetings with our Melbourne crew, it was nothing to start having some fresh faces from faraway places. This is how Upper East Side NYC resident Zach Blass started with us, shortly followed by Oslo-based Thor Svaboe. The names are probably familiar to you, as in a short time, they’ve both clocked over 100 stories, and they can’t stop, won’t stop. They say cream rises to the top, in this case, it’s a result of some incredibly high-quality handiwork. So, in early 2021, it gives me great pleasure to announce that Zach is our first ever US Editor, and Thor will take another newly created role as Independents Editor,…

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It’s a fitting time to publish our first ever Female Wind Down, in place of the usual Friday Wind Down. New websites are launching, collectives are forming and congregating on Instagram and Clubhouse, and the noise level questioning many of the fundamental tenets of the watch industry – stemming from the one that designates it primarily a playground for men – is reaching quite a pitch. Meanwhile, everywhere we look, the patriarchy is crumbling. What a time to be alive. If the watch industry were a band venue, there’s that same sense of nervous anticipation before the main act comes on. You know the vibe. It starts as a murmur, then a curtain moves, a kick drum rings out, and it’s noisy as hell, it’s on. But instead of Nirvana, it’s Veruca Salt. Instead of The Ramones at CBGBs, it’s Shonen Knife at an art gallery in Ginza. We are seeing new leaders in the industry and in the media emerge, and for me, it’s as refreshing as a cold glass of water on a hot day. It does take me back. Please indulge a memory. In our first printed material for Time+Tide, in the way, way back of March…

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The watch industry’s persistent categorising of watches by gender is back on the agenda. And well and truly in frame is the pointlessness of the “women’s watch” category.  But, speaking personally here, I’m not one to let a category push me around. I really don’t count labelling for men and women as being told what to do. For me, those labels are simply a shortcut to getting some idea of what the size, look and feel of the watch might be. Conversely, if I already know what the watch is like, the labels – because they are so predictable and clichéd – are a filter that makes the piece quicker to find. Saves a bit of time, either way. No offence taken. Same goes for trousers. Can be worn by men or women – in that sense, they are gender-neutral. As with a watch, our choice is driven by whether we like the way they look and how good they feel to wear. Do we get upset that clothing boutiques are labelled men and women? Nope. Because it vastly increases our chances of finding something that fits. That said, in the same way that Cara Barrett over at Hodinkee recently…

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