Orient Watches: the Japanese brand with a cult following for sharp designs and extraordinary value
Orient is a strong value-based Japanese brand beloved of watch forum and vintage fanatics. The most well-known references are bold ’70s forays into the colourful world of degrade and multi-year calendar dials. While merging with Epson in the early 70s brought Orient watches under the strong wings of the Seiko corporation, they have stayed true to their own path of Japanese design and great value cementing their position in the Asian market. But in the west they remain something of a secret that’s well worth discovering. Orient enjoyed an upsurge in the 2000s with the classic shape and mechanical calibers of the Bambino range, while the Mako divers are seen as a strong value alternative to the ubiquitous Seiko SKX’s in the US. Like Seiko, the brand’s calling-card is strong divers with solid mechanical movements. With a 70-year history under their belt, Orient Watches is a force to be reckoned with, and here are five strong cards of a winning hand, all with a distinct flavour of Japanese individuality. Orient Kamasu The Kamasu is exactly what it seems, a great everyday tough diver’s watch with a classic dark blue dial and a grip-friendly bezel. Quite similar in look to the…
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So we’re staying at my in-laws and my two-year-old is lying in his cot stubbornly refusing to go to sleep. Presently, I’m summoned to his room (again) by a frenzy of yells. “Daaad!” he says pointing to the mantelpiece. “That clock is scary!” “How so? I enquire. “IT’S GOT GOOGLY EYES!!!” Peering at the table clock, I grudgingly admit the two winding holes for the chimes and pendulum embedded in the stepped dial do look a bit like eyes. So I cover the clock’s fearsome visage with a blanket. All seems to be well and, after the customary round of delaying tactics (demands for milk / an apple / a cuddle / fewer blankets / a plastic dinosaur…), my son eventually surrenders to sleep. But several hours later, I hear an ear-splitting scream. When I go into Marc’s room, he’s standing up in his cot pointing to the clock on the mantelpiece. “Daaad!” he wails. “That clock is trying to eat me!” I remove the clock from the room, calm my son and go back to bed. So what was going on here? Well, a quick diagnosis by Dr Google – the logical place to go when confronted by googly-eyed…
Why does this seem like a natural combination, while all my logical senses tell me it’s wrong in so many ways? The Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126603 is methodically over-engineered in every functional capacity and yet, if we compare it to the similarly butch Omega Ploprof, it feels like the polar opposite, somehow managing to still exude an elegant, raffish air. With this Rolesor yellow gold version, make that an air of caddish insouciance, as it flaunts its capabilities as a tool watch by bringing the gold. To be honest, as a two-tone watch Rolex does the best job in the business imbuing the models (Rolesor? Not a proprietary alloy, it simply means two-tone) with an added zest of colour. It somehow feels completely natural, and more of a celebratory colour for their tool watch prowess. It may look like a watch designed for pure business attire and party flexing, but the Sea-Dweller is still very much a tool watch ready for action. While personally I do feel that 43mm is on the large side – its mere presence puts me one the edge of nervousness – I love the juxtaposition of badass tool with the polished silky smooth centre links…
Watchmaking is a heritage and tradition-driven industry that does not always feel the need to explore modern design and materials. But fortunately some manufacturers have realised there is a segment of consumers itching for brands to do just that. In previous articles I have noted the rather homogenised nature of watches on the market which, to be fair, is largely a result of our purchasing behaviors that steer the course that companies take. But the growing presence of carbon in watchmaking today constitutes a rebel outpost that is countering this aspect of the industry. Carbon has the benefit of being a very robust and light alternative to more common metal cases. It is easier to tame on a manufacturing line than titanium, but provides comparable shock resistance and heft to the lightweight metal. Carbon naturally provides a new texture and distinctive aesthetic previously not found in timepieces and more brands are beginning to experiment with the futuristic material. Here are seven carbon watches you should check out, all at varying price points. Victorinox I.N.O.X. Carbon Mechanical Because carbon is fairly new to the industry, the pricing of the watches can be at times quite high – usually to offset the…