It’s not uncommon for thriving watch brands in the 19th century to have succumbed to competition, economic hardships and volatile global conditions by the mid-20th century. The entire American watch industry basically collapsed, and in Germany, brands like A. Lange & Söhne shut its doors in 1948 following World War II. Of course, that brand […]
In Scandinavia, our long dark winters should be a fertile breeding ground for horology. Just as the oppressive gloom sent the Swiss inside to tinker about with watchmaking tools and lathes, you might expect a similar tradition to have developed in these parts – Scandinavian design and Nordic minimalism are, after all, deeply engrained in our regional psyche. Alas, however, there are just a few watchmakers out here. Yet one that has gained traction is the Swedish brand Bravur Watches, whose clean-cut designs set it apart from the barrage of microbrands. Their latest offering, the Bravur x Wingårdh Limited Edition, epitomises the brand’s mid-century modernist style in the form of a quietly spoken dress watch that oozes understated Nordic elegance. Bravur specialises in refined dress watches with a minimalist vibe that encompass an array of Swiss-made quartz and automatic watches in the Goldilocks sizes of 38 and 39mm. You’ll find the watches usually fitted on soft leather two-stitch straps with a tempting monogram option and a dial with an inner minute track. This time, Bravur has collaborated with famed architect Gert Wingårdh and his son, the award-winning designer Rasmus Wingårdh, for a fresh take on the dress watch. The Bravur…
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Some of us love diver’s watches, some skeletonised dress watches. But no matter what you do — driving a truck or stuck behind a desk — maybe nothing is more tempting in watches than the world of aviation, whether it be invoking the adventurous spirit of WWII dogfights, or the memories of Top Gun. You might actually fly a twin-prop Cessna and rely on the infallibility of a top-tier pilot’s watch to back you up in an emergency. Here is a top 5 of the best, from high-tech weapons-grade ceramic to aged black steel with rose gold accents. Chocks away as we look at a few of the best pilot watches of 2020 over $10K, and yes, you will notice that we have expanded the category to include all sky-dwellers that turn left when they enter the plane. IWC Top Gun ‘SFTI’ Edition Big, bold, tough and black. Story done. Sorry, if you don’t know your pilot’s watches from divers, this might be your first impression, but look closely and the tool expertise of IWC quickly becomes apparent, from pure functionality to the sharp pop of red detail. A silky smooth case of ceramic and IWC’s own Ceratanium — yes, it does what…
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Naruto is one of the biggest-selling manga series in history, selling 250 million copies worldwide. The Japanese anime series followed the adventures of a young ninja, Naruto Uzumaki, while a spin-off series, Boruto, subsequently focused on Naruto’s son. The shows’ all-action exploits have now inspired Seiko to create a new collection of seven watches based on some of the central characters from the show. Before we dig into the distinct characteristics of each reference, let’s dig into the elements they all have in common. The watches are essentially variations on the Seiko 5 Sports watch that’s widely regarded as a great first watch for budding collectors. More importantly in this instance, it’s a top option for any self-respecting ninja due to the watch’s high degree of resistance to shock and daily wear. Each of the seven cases are made of stainless steel, have dimensions of 42.5mm in diameter and 13.4mm in thickness, and have a protected crown at the 4 position. You will find a day-date complication at the 3 position on every model as well. They are all powered by the robust Seiko manufacture automatic Caliber 4R36, with 24 jewels, 41-hour power reserve, and a hacking second hand (take…
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Editor’s note: This is a story that focuses on two things, being the collection and story of the man that almost certainly owns more Speedmasters than any other collector on earth, Mr Bhaskar Eswaran. It also leads into a description of the new Omega Authentication service for watches more than 30 years old. I am lucky to have had my beloved Omega Ranchero authenticated by Omega, and can say the service is exceptional, and the cherished red envelope that the official information arrives in is akin to receiving a Top Secret dossier from James Bond. More on that in another story. Each day when a watch collector wakes up, they have the first-world problem of having to decide which lovely timepiece to strap to their wrist. For all watch owners, there’s usually some sort of system or method when picking the watch of the day. What clothes am I wearing? What have I already worn this week? Now imagine you had enough watches, where theoretically, you could wear a different timepiece every day without wearing the same watch twice for an entire year. Bhaskar Eswaran does not have to imagine this conundrum, he lives it every day with likely the…
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Don’t call it quartz, it’s been here for years.
The momentum IWC generated in 2019 has continued unimpeded this year, with a slightly dressier focus. Here, we’re treated with the reinvigoration of the stoic, masculine, yet classy line in the new IWC 2020 Portugieser Collection. With the Portugieser Chronograph, IWC have stuck with their attitude of evolution over revolution, upgrading all of the regular production models with the new in-house calibre 69355 column-wheel chronograph movement — a visceral treat for the eyes when viewed through the display caseback. Three new sunburst dial variations are captivating, with the steel case offering a mossy-forest green or a rich oxblood red, and an 18k yellow gold case flaunting a classic navy blue. The Portugieser Automatic 40 brings a touch of refined, yet not understated, simplicity in a well-proportioned package. The steel-cased and white-dialled variant is available with either blue or gold hands and markers, while the blue dial’s steel highlights are clean and crisp. Should you want something that suits the dressier side of life, there is also a model in 18k gold. The fun doesn’t stop with the simpler sides of the collection, either, as the highly-complicated Perpetual Calendars and Yacht Club Chronograph models have all made an impact upon their…
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As the end of the year is fast approaching, it was time for MONOCHROME’s editorial team to sit around the (virtual) table and to have a look back at all the new watches that have been introduced in 2020. Despite a complex situation and sales that have been impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, we’ve seen […]
Once again, I am confused, seriously confused. When I’d finally sussed out the language of Moser they have another ace up their sleeve. Not entirely new, but even after being out for almost a year it still astounds me when I get my hands on it, and here it delights with a new alluring blue dial. The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is different from, well, everything. While legacy brands tweak their tried and tested icons by 1mm, that well-lit safe path is not for Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser. Difference, innovation, and the unlikely term, irony. Here, instead of homage, we have retro futurism. First Impressions The expression curvilinear replaces angular. I must confess I run the risk of repeating my own gushing enthusiasm for the case and bracelet, as I was lucky enough to spend time with the apple green splendour of the latest Streamliner in my story here. Images are one thing, but nothing will prepare you for the sheer ‘otherness’ of the mini-tank-armadillo-like convex (let’s make production extra difficult!) bracelet. This flows into a poetic vision of streamlined form, and turning into an alien Bullhead chronograph, with an added large crown at 4 o’clock.…
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I had a secret wish this autumn, which was the intricate dial structure of the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged series filtering into the round case Presage range, and here we are, perfectly paired with a Milanese mesh strap instead of a bracelet. The Seiko Presage series is well known for the Cocktail Time series, glossy dials saturated with colours and the simple elegance of applied indices. The new Seiko Presage SRPF37J and SRPF39J bring a few welcome design twists, including the ever-evolving dial art of Seiko with a hypnotising pattern. First impressions What strikes you first when trying on these two references is the near perfect case size of 38.5mm, which, with a slim 11.75mm thickness, equates to pure delight. These two come on an elegant Milanese mesh, giving you a much softer feel than a normal bracelet. It drapes around the wrist with a silky metallic touch, while being a great formal alternative to leather in the warmer climes of summer. As both references also come with a leather strap, you have your sartorial choices sorted, with both versions coming with a welcome quick-release for an easy match-up to your outfit and mood of the day. The case Seiko…
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