The link between Ulysse Nardin and the sea has always been emphasised. For decades, the brand was a reputable maker of marine chronometers and timing instruments for sea explorers. The brand continues this tradition as the Official Timekeeper of the 9th edition of the Vendée Globe, the gruelling non-stop and unassisted yacht race around the […]
Brellum has just released a resolutely modern, yet classic take on a pilot’s chronograph, with the sharpest of details – and shows how much colour and texture transforms the aviator personality of the Brellum Pilot Power Gauge Chronometer. This is another strong reference from Brellum that will follow your lead, be it battle-ready flight instrument under a leather jacket sleeve, or as a sharp sports chronograph on a bracelet. From the monochrome bulletproof image of the black dial version, to the delicate silver sunburst dial on a classic steel bracelet bringing a modern formality to the table. If we start on the classic end of the scale, the strong monochrome dial with a vintage-inspired hand-sewn brown strap is familiar and emphasises the proportions and legibility of the Brellum design language. The brushed 41.8mm case has curved lugs, with the broad stroke of a polished bevel that widens towards the lug tips, accentuating the broad-shouldered look. The purposeful image is underlined in a slim polished bezel, and the retro-perfect domed sapphire crystal creates charming hints of distortion on the edges of the dial. The pushers for the chronograph are a solid pump design, balanced nicely by the big crown typical of…
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For me, the TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition (available for purchase here) could quite possibly be my favourite from the maison in the last 20 years, and I am not exaggerating. This is a pure Carrera chronograph, a sharp, clear and distilled version of its forefather, the silver monochrome Carrera 2447SD. It approaches the epitome of what a chronograph should be, and sits in the Goldilocks zone of a slender 39mm steel case. We are looking at a supremely comfortable size, though with a visual impact more like 40mm due to its delicate polished bezel and light silver tone. This is a powerful yet discreet presence on the wrist. The razor-sharp monochrome visage on a classic black leather strap means this will go with any outfit, from a summer shirt to a dark winter merino knit, and that sharp Italian cut suit. It might be the perfect one-watch collection, had it not been for its colourful namesake fighting for attention — the TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Montreal Limited Edition (available for purchase here). Though I admittedly want them both, I will carefully dissect each detail with a loupe to see what differentiates these two Carreras, down to…
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Editor’s note: Grand Seiko turned heads at the start of 2020 with the announcement of a brand new in-house movement – the Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber. It was first launched in the Grand Seiko SLGH002 60th Anniversary Limited Edition, a quintessential yellow gold dress watch from the Japanese watchmaking firm, and it left jaws on the floor with what it had achieved. We saw the 9SA5 caliber again earlier this month in the Grand Seiko SLGH003, this time in a sportier watch in stainless steel that was a statement of intent from Grand Seiko. But what makes this new movement so special? We thought we’d get an independent watchmaker to answer that question, our friend Reuben Schoots. We first spoke with Reuben in NOW Magazine Issue II, about his journey building a tourbillon pocket watch according to the George Daniels method. By hand. You read that right. The first of its kind in Australia. By hand. So without further ado, here’s Reuben. Grand Seiko’s new movement, the 9SA5, boasts 80 hours of power reserve, a new movement architecture, a new escapement, a new balance, a beat rate of 36,000 vph, +5 to -3 seconds accuracy per day, oh, and the…
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It’s not just Tiffany-signed Pateks anymore.
Not all Daytonas are made equal – even Paul’s.
Let’s go straight to the point; the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 in steel is THE ultimate Speedmaster. Period! Whether for its design, its accuracy, the level of details, the overall execution, the historical relevance and, of course, its absolutely superb movement, it has it all. When it has been officially revealed, we knew Omega had created a real showstopper, a watch that was on the line for becoming a success. Still, we wanted to confirm all of these statements by putting the watch to a test, on the wrist – and, let’s be honest, we also wanted to enjoy it for ourselves, even for a short period of time. So, fasten your spacesuit and let’s have a close look at the Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321.
Within the watch community, you will hear the phrase “in the metal” a fair bit. With some watches it is as simple as paying a quick visit to an authorised dealer to become more acclimated with a watch. However, not all watches are available to view in-store – and no, this is not a conversation about Rolex. The Eichi II, from Credor, is a watch most people do not have an option of seeing on-demand. It typically hits stores for showings for special events put together in honour of trade fairs or VIP customer gatherings. Thankfully, for those who have not had the fortune of seeing one in person, we have the next best thing: photos and videos from macro maestro @horomariobro. Andrew McUtchen: Now this one is a very simple one and a very beautiful one. Or seemingly simple, I should say … @Horomariobro: Definitely. With the Eichi II, I am trying to show three things. One is the dial — I want to show how smooth and white the dial is. The dial is not made of enamel. A lot of people will think it’s an enamel dial, but it’s not, it’s made of porcelain. It’s extremely white. I actually had…
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Editor’s note: Arguably, the GMT complication is the most practical in a watch. Everyone has at least one other time zone they want to track, but there aren’t many people using their chronographs to measure F1 lap times. The GMT complication also offers an opportunity to think about the world at large. It reminds you of how big the world is, and presents an opportunity to forget the moment-to-moment stresses that we all face in our lives. If that wasn’t enough, the wristwatch GMT complication has been imagined in innumerable ways over the decades, and are an exciting and creative corner of the watch world. So with that in mind, we wanted to look at what we think are some of the best GMTs of 2020 over $10K. Let’s go. AP Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT The Concept range by Audemars Piguet is a latter-day classic, and since its introduction in 2002, has attracted a new clientèle to the brand. Hell, the cutting-edge angular weaponry of the Concept will blow even the flashiest Offshore out of the water, and that says a lot for its imposing presence. As Fergus Nash underlined in our in-depth story here, the AP Royal Oak…
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He helped make James Bond and the Rolex Submariner what they are today.