HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-winding with Date, and Égérie Moon Phase
Launching a completely new watch collection (starting-from-a-blank-page new, not variations on an existing line) is a high-risk game that involves huge costs: the cost of design and development – and if it’s not a resounding success (heaven forbid), the cost to both brand equity and bottom line. No wonder it’s a rare event. Even rarer is the launch of an entirely new collection for women. Partly for the above reasons and also because women, to this day, remain a bit of an afterthought in much of the watch industry. The old “give her something with diamonds and a quartz movement” school of thought has remarkable stamina. So the first whisper that Vacheron Constantin was planning a new women’s collection prompted a discussion with some girlfriends – if there were such a thing as an ideal watch for the 21st-century woman, what would it be? On several points we were unanimous: it should have real presence on the wrist (no fluffy, girly nonsense – and bland is utterly taboo); its design should exude character and confidence (like the women who will wear it); it should be packed with beautifully crafted details; it should show some self-control in the bling department (yes,…
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While watches equipped with a moon phase complication aren’t without their detractors, for the astronomically inclined, they are wonderful devices. And, from an aesthetic standpoint, timepieces just tend to look better when they sport some form of moon on their dial. Don’t believe us? Well, take a look at these four watches … maybe they’ll change your mind. CHRISTOPHER WARD C1 MOONGLOW The Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow takes the whimsical moon phase complication and presents it in a fashion that belies its entry-level price bracket. With a galaxy of excellent moon-inspired watches released in July to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the moon landing (July 20, 1969), picking a favourite was never going to be easy. But this one, from the British watchmaker known for putting together a fine value proposition, might just be it. Ref No: C01-40AMP1-S00K0-CK / Case size: 40.5mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: JJ04 / Price: $2530 LONGINES 1832 Classically proportioned at 40mm, this watch strikes the challenging balance of having both a presence on the wrist as well as an understated charm that makes it suitable for just about any occasion where you’re wearing a tie or a T-shirt. Offering a date display around…
Ben came into the Time+Tide offices to buy a NATO strap for his TAG Heuer Monaco. But the conversation quickly turned to the unusual Bulgari diver’s watch on his wrist. Here, Ben explains the backstory behind the purchase and why — despite it contradicting everything he normally likes in a watch — he absolutely loves it. Originally, this was my dad’s watch, but I think he only wore it twice in 10 years. Dad tends to like bigger pieces – he’s also got a Panerai Luminor and a TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5. With this watch, he’d always just say it was “too formal”. So I keep saying, “Let me buy this watch off you! Let me buy it off you!” My dad would always refuse. He’d say, “Ben, I bought this watch for 10 grand. I’m not going to sell it to you.” But I persisted. It’s strange because I don’t really like flashy watches. I probably wouldn’t wear an all-gold watch; in fact, I’d even avoid most two-tone watches. My dream watch is just a white dial Vacheron Constantin Overseas — no chronograph, just nice, plain, simple. But, for me, this watch just had the perfect amount of gold. It’s not…
It’s a good thing that wearing a watch is something that you can do regardless of the weather, because Australia is in the midst of an absolute doozy of a summer. Over the last few months devastating fires have ravaged the countryside, and now parts of the land are completely flooded. Regardless, I went out in search of timepieces at a very damp Sandown race track, about 25 kilometres south east of Melbourne, for the first round of the Australian GT Championship. Here’s what I found: And now to the watches: Riley’s (@roleyman) Longines Avigation BigEye Riley has been after a pilot’s watch for quite some time, and when this Longines Avigation BigEye came up at a reputable secondhand dealer late last week, he jumped at the opportunity. A former GPHG ‘Revival Watch Prize’ winner, the Avigation is a very cool watch. The dial is charmingly utilitarian, and harks back to the tool watches of the ’50s, and the 41mm stainless-steel, stepped case, domed sapphire crystal and pronounced chronograph pushers give it good wrist presence without being too overbearing – a problem with some pilot’s watches. Riley says his new Longines is going to take over weekend watch duties from…
Well, this is a bit different to a normal What Sealed The Deal … seeing as this Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph is actually my watch. I purchased it late last year after a particularly dogged haggling match that started with a seemingly innocuous Gumtree.com ad. Anyway, I’ll spare you the deets of the torrid exchange of words … let’s get started: When did you first see/hear about it? This particular Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph, Ref. MV045216, had been on my radar for quite some time. In fact, I remember when it was first unveiled thinking it was a handsome-looking timepiece. Fast forward a couple of years, and one of my closest mates purchased a very similar Capeland Chronograph S, Ref. M0A08113, which utilised the same ETA/Valjoux 7750 based Calibre BM 13750. It was such a good watch, and the heft and perceived quality of the timepiece left a lasting impression. Any story behind the purchase? Nothing too profound really. However, I will say that it’s definitely worth keeping an eye on the classifieds on Gumtree and eBay, because bargains do pop up from time to time, and when they do, you have to act … quickly. Oh, and always…
Few other bezel designs in recent memory have conjured more furore and admiration in the horological community than the so-called Batman bezel. Yes, the black and blue aesthetic has had everyone in a tizzy for years now, likely since Rolex unveiled their GMT-Master II Ref. 116710BLNR in 2013. Since then, the two colours have featured on the bezels of numerous watches from other manufacturers, keen to celebrate the oh-so-vogue colours and, let’s be honest, punch their ticket on the hype train. However, while motivations for creating such timepieces might trigger the odd cynical reaction, there are now many watches out there that rock the Bruce Wayne bravado just as well as the original Batman. On that note, here are five of the best black and blue timepieces on the market right now. Timex M79 Automatic OK, yes, this is a controversial one, mainly because despite being released just days ago, the new Timex M79 Automatic has already sold out and you can find the watches on eBay commanding a hefty premium … damn flippers! Anyway, ignoring the cheeky speculators, the new M79 Automatic is a good-looking watch, and if you can manage to get your hands on one for retail…