Watch Dandy

Independence is a rare commodity in watchmaking. To have it is one thing; to hold on to it is quite another. We’ve seen many great brands consumed by hungry conglomerates over the past two decades, with several big names falling under group ownership since 2009. But what of those that remain? Which labels still stand firm, able to govern their keels and steer the ship wherever they wish to travel? Our list of the top five independent watch brands of the last decade takes on a journey around the world, stopping off in three countries, in a search of self-governing superstars. And so, in no particular order, here’s who made the cut … Grand Seiko There are a lot of annoying things about Grand Seiko. Whoever is in charge of product photography and post-production needs to take a long and contemplative walk in the rain. But despite these (widespread) gripes, Grand Seiko remains one of the most fantastic brands in the world. The designs are dreamy, the finishing second to none, and the movement technology (especially the Spring Drive) is something else. A better strategy for the globalisation of the brand would be appreciated, but once the powers that be…

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Editor’s note: First released at Baselworld 2017, Chopard’s L.U.C XP turned heads from the moment it was unveiled. And, as we wrote at the time, it’s a compelling timepiece that blends everyday practicality with real dress watch sensibility. The aesthetics of this watch aren’t its only saving grace, however … far from it. Thanks to being an L.U.C timepiece, you’re also getting a watch with the mechanical prowess and bespoke finishing only to be expected of Chopard’s haute horology offshoot. Below are some further thoughts and specs on this great watch. Enjoy.  I don’t want to sound like a jaded watch journalist because – let’s be honest – those guys are the worst. But having said that, there were not too many surprises at Baselworld 2017. I knew we’d be seeing Speedmasters from Omega, a Sea-Dweller from Rolex and some crazy-but-cool collabs from Hublot. I didn’t expect to be blown away by a simple, smart little dress watch from Chopard. Now, don’t get me wrong, I’ve got a lot of time for Chopard’s fine watchmaking (and indeed their high jewellery – though I’m not the target market there), but the way the Chopard L.U.C XP managed to combine proper high horology, classical restraint and…

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Watch enthusiasts face a somewhat unique challenge. When asked, “What are your hobbies?”, if you answer “rugby” or “dining out”, your response is almost immediately understood. In my own experience, when I say “watches”, the response is, more often than not, another question. “Watches?” My answer only seems to create echoing confusion. There are a lot of beliefs about the watch industry that aren’t necessarily correct, but they aren’t wrong either. They’re just not as nuanced as they could be. The zeitgeist seems to be that watches are an outmoded technology, like the riding crop. When horses were the main form of transportation, we needed one. With cars, not so much. Similarly, when we didn’t have mobile phones, or smart watches, we needed a mechanical watch. Now that we have better timekeeping tech, the watch seems vestigial. So being part of the #watchfam (a controversial term itself) means that you also have a chance to serve as an ambassador, or perhaps educator. Our community, and the industry, is actually quite effective in this role. We make great use of Instagram to show all kinds of fascinating timepieces. As Napoleon is rumoured to have said, “a good sketch is better than…

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There’s a cliché that men are often clueless when it comes to choosing the right gift for a woman – especially (weirdly) when she’s the Significant Other in their lives. That, combined with the eye-rolling that all of us at Time+Tide do when an email with “Valentines” in the subject line lands in our inboxes (which has been happening quite a bit over the past month), prompted me to ask Nick and James which watch they would offer their SO as a Valentine’s Day gift. Then, from a woman’s point of view (a woman who, every 14th February, cringes at the flood of hearts-red roses-teddybears-and-bows kitsch that – somehow – is supposed to show that you love her), I would critique their choices. So here we go. My Valentine’s Day Choice: Nicholas Kenyon – White gold Piaget with lapis lazuli dial Part of you can’t really get too excited about Valentine’s Day, thanks to the relatively mindless consumerism that happens halfway through February each year, but another part admits that spending time with your significant other, and maybe even getting a gift, is never a bad thing either. While watches are more of a focus at work than at home for…

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Few names loom larger in the horological hemisphere than Mike Tay … and it is very easy to understand why. Here is a man at the helm of the largest and most influential watch retailer in the entirety of the Asia Pacific – The Hour Glass. It’s a region which many regard to be the preponderant market on the globe. With 40-plus stores under Tay’s stewardship, the Singaporean’s advice and counsel is sought by pretty much every watchmaker on the planet. In short, he is the pulse of watch retailing in this part of the world. Tay’s story of how he rose to prominence is an interesting one and, rather oddly, both he and his family’s relationship to Australia, and more specifically Melbourne, is, to a degree, pivotal in both the creation and success of The Hour Glass. Furthermore, this year will see the official opening of The Hour Glass’s new Melbourne boutique at 252 Collins Street, formerly known as Kodak House, which promises to be a flagship like no other. Back in 2017, A Collected Man interviewed Tay, and it’s a great read. Hit this link to read it.

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