Watch Dandy

Watches with complications — like the chronograph, moonphase or, in this case, the GMT — are less about practical function and more about possibility. Sure, these watches are designed to excel on the road (or in the air for that matter), but for most wearers, that is an infrequent reality. Still, the possibility of far-off places is enough for many people to fall in love with the GMT complication. It’s also a complication that doesn’t have to break the bank, something these five watches can attest to.  Grand Seiko SBGN003   You can make a strong case for this plucky Grand Seiko being one of the greatest GMTs period, regardless of price point. The style is classic sport, and the 39mm case (that isn’t too tall at 12.1mm) is super wearable. Truly versatile and it’s also rocking one of the coolest quartz (!) movements in the business, the mighty 9F. $4400 Montblanc Heritage GMT  Here’s a watch that bucks the perception that a GMT has to be sporty. This handsome salmon-dialled fella puts the style in ‘travel in style’, with a 40mm case, gorgeous grey gator strap and that aforementioned dial, which is sophisticated and full of surprising textures. The blue…

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Imagine, if you will, that you’re a watch fan in the 1990s or even early 2000s. Through some incredible new complication (I suspect Urwerk’s invention), you’re jumped forward in time to 2019. While some things remain the same, the changes are pretty incredible. Take, for example, this watch. It’s a one-off piece made by Zenith, designed by Phillips (in association with Bacs & Russo). Not only is the thought of an auction house designing a unique watch — which they’ll then sell (for charity) at their Geneva Watch Auction X next month — kind of bonkers, but it’s also amazing just how really, really good-looking it is.  Let’s start with the dial. Sure, it’s blue and pretty vintage in a way befitting the mighty El Primero, but that doesn’t begin to express how special this piece is — because it’s made from a slender slice of lapis lazuli, a vivid blue stone flecked with golden inclusions. It’s patina of an entirely different kind and it looks awesome. Add to this the fact that the case is platinum — and you’ve got an even more compelling proposition. And Zenith CEO Julien Tornare says this will be the only platinum A386 ever made, so…

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What are the most talked-about watches of 2019? Depends who you ask, obviously, but in a sizeable part of Planet Watch-Nut the answer is “luxury steel sports watch on integrated bracelet” – although not necessarily for good reasons (unless you count over-hype and over-pricing as good). During the past couple of weeks, in another part of watch-planet (which probably, inevitably, has some small degree of crossover with the first one), the most talked about is “the new Lange”. And now we can reveal that it is – drum roll – a luxury steel sports watch on an integrated bracelet. But, having spent some hands-on time with it, I will state with absolute certainty that the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus is much more than “just” that. It’s a surprising watch in some ways – not really Lange and yet totally, indisputably Lange in every molecule. (Mind you, the “not really Lange” bit is only because we tend to think those Saxons make nothing but dressy, leather-strapped watches. Those of you who own Datographs on metal bracelets know better, of course.) That said, the Odysseus is quite particular, so will not be to everyone’s taste – and that’s just fine. The…

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