IN-DEPTH: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT
The story in a second: One of the best watch designs of recent times gets complicated. I know I’m not alone in thinking that the Octo Finissimo family is one of the most important commercial watch designs of the last decade or so. Sure, it’s based on an old Genta design, but the Octo has evolved so far under the careful ministrations of Bulgari’s design team so as to legitimately stand tall on its own merits. It’s a strong design, one that deigns to ape the past and provides a compelling argument for modernity and a versatile platform that looks great in numerous metals and treatments. And while the Octo exists in Bulgari’s ‘regular’ watches, the Octo Finissimo takes the design to its logical, breathtaking conclusion. And the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT proves that, and then some. The case There are two things that really struck me about the case of this watch. Firstly, just how well it works as a chronograph. Now, many watch designs look a little ordinary when that smooth profile has been marred by a few pushers popping out all over the place. Not so here. In fact, if it wasn’t for those registers on the…
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One of the most interesting watch ‘releases’ this year was Panerai’s series of experiential watches. Basically, the brand released a series of watches with a particular focus — diving, exploration, the armed forces — each with an associated ambassador or partner. One release was the regular version of the watch, and the second was a very exclusive limited edition, a twist on the watch that came with the opportunity to take part in an pretty exceptional money-can’t-buy experience. A few weeks ago, one of these experiences went down in Italy. Owners of the exclusive Marina Militare PAM961 (the less limited version is the PAM979, which you can check out below) spent a pretty serious 72 hours with the Italian Navy (AKA the Marina Militare). Of course, the Italian Navy link is one deeply seated in the lore and legend of Panerai, but the lucky few PAM961 wearers saw that link in a whole other light, putting their Panerai through the paces with the Italian Navy’s special forces, known as the Comsubin. From the vantage point of my desk chair, this experience looks pretty exhausting, and I’m sure it represented the merest fraction of what the actual Comsubin guys go through.…
Over the last few years, Seiko’s Presage collection has earned something of a reputation for excellence in enamel, with a quick succession of hot watches with fired dials. And while in the past these pieces have leant towards complexity, SJE075 and SJE077 simplify things a little, and serve as contrasting tributes to the original Seiko Laurel. Both watches feature plain dials, with a date at three, Breguet-style Arabic numerals, and well-sized 39.5mm steel case with a super-hard coating. Reference SJE075 is the white dial, which amps up the vintage look, with the distinctive red 12 and blued steel hands, while SJE077 serves some more low-key style, in midnight blue. Regardless of your dial preference, these Presage models would make an excellent dressy daily option. Seiko Presage SJE075 and SJE077 price Seiko Presage SJE075 and SJE077, steel on leather, $4700 AUD Made in partnership with Seiko. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.
Audemars Piguet have once again stunned everyone with their latest full-ceramic piece of timekeeping wonderment – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked. Showcasing the Swiss marque’s ceramic prowess, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar’s 41mm black ceramic case and conforming bracelet are finished to exquisite detail, and feature both brushed and polished elements. And when combined and contrasted with the gorgeously warm tones of the openworked dial’s pink gold accents, this makes for one of the most aesthetically appealing watches AP has released this year. Speaking of the openworked movement, it’s Audemars Piguet’s prodigious, in-house Caliber 5135, a self-winding work of art that houses a perpetual calendar complication, which intricately displays the day, week, month, date, leap year and moon phase. In addition, the mesmerising movement is fitted with no less than 374 parts, 38 jewels, and offers customers up to 40 hours of power reserve and beats away at a calm 19,800vph (2.75Hz). Surprisingly, this isn’t, strictly speaking, a limited edition timepiece. However, it is a boutique exclusive, which means that the closest store for Australians is Audemars Piguet’s Singaporean boutique … and we’re going to go out on a limb here and guess that the waiting list…