The Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture Grand Feu is a winner of a watch
Editor’s note: This watch might not be the newest release but, by gosh, it’s as fresh today as the day it passed final quality control. We take another look at the Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture Grand Feu … Ulysse Nardin pulled out all the stops for its first SIHH showing. In a fair characterised by conservative product releases, the Le Locle-based manufacturer presented a strong line-up of novelties, with a strong nautical theme. Highlights included the new regatta timer, the technically impressive Marine Grand Deck, as well as this watch – the Classico Manufacture Grand Feu. This very traditional timepiece is jam-packed with smart details and offered at a highly competitive price. At 40mm across, the round steel case is hard to dislike, with its wide polished bezel, slightly clawed lugs set into the case middle, and a crown that’s simple, sturdy and not at all fiddly. Nice though the case is, it doesn’t hold a candle to what’s within. The movement is the UN-320 caliber, made entirely in-house, down to the silicium hairspring and escapement – a feat of which the brand is rightly proud (the oft-repeated message at SIHH was that none of the other exhibiting brands made their own silicon hairsprings).…
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Editor’s note: A little while ago we went off-script with our watch coverage, making a short, snappy series of videos that — in a decidedly tongue-in-cheek manner — aimed to assist you in your Tudor purchasing decision. Here’s our take on the archetypal Tudor Pelagos wearer. And if you’ve got a Pelagos on your wrist and you’re not wearing a single item of Patagonia, isn’t it time you questioned your life choices? “Which watch should I get?” It’s the first, and hardest, question to answer for any watch lover (shortly followed by “which watch should I get next?”), and our news and reviews aim to make that question easier for you to answer. Well, today we make it simpler yet, with a series of three short videos that each ask, “How do you know which Tudor is right for you?” We match three key watches from Tudor’s catalogue to three styles of wearer, albeit in a slightly tongue-in-cheek way. First up is Tudor’s mighty technical diver, the Pelagos. So, if the above video resonates with you, you might want to check out our longer review. But you’re not completely off the hook — the next tricky question is: Black, Blue…
If you’ll pardon the pun, Moser pioneered the development of elegant, perpetual calendars with their subtle Endeavour, which saw the month displayed using a short hand, mounted on the central pinion, and using the 12-hour markers as surrogates for the months of the year. Well, this model, the Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar, sees the brand change gears a little, steering the complication into more legible territory. Gone is the central hand, with the month indicator now occupying a prominent aperture next to the extant date window at three. The increased legibility certainly adds some visual weight to the right-hand side of the dial, which is partially offset by the power reserve at nine (bonus points for using the same typeface as the date/month wheels on the reserve indicator). The vertical axis design features are the printed brand up top, and the hefty sub-seconds down the bottom — with nice circular graining details. And because this is a Pioneer, you get a steel case, and luminous pops on the dial and those semi-open hands. The case is big at 42.8mm across, excluding the grippy conical crown. There are two dials on offer — a very interesting burgundy fumé that has decidedly aubergine…