RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so
Let me preface this by stating two things: (a) this is a slightly more philosophical discussion than usual, and (b) Franco Cologni is an important man in the watch business. After starting his career selling Must de Cartier products in the ’70s (of which I am a fan), he rose prominently within the Parisian organisation, becoming the Chairman of Cartier in 2000. Besides his developed business acumen, Franco Cologni also has a developed handle on the English language, expressing opinions eloquently in the journal of the FHH, where he is also President of the FHH Cultural Council. In one recent column, he investigates the semantic paradox of perfection within the luxury watch business. Franco Cologni begins by establishing that any “popular luxury” is in fact a fantasy produced by “luxury marketeers” (which can’t help but remind of the German philosopher Nietzsche when he asked, “How should there be a ‘common good’! The term contradicts itself: whatever can be common always has little value”). While that might be more broadly open for debate, what he believes is less open for discussion is the definition of perfection proposed by Aristotle, where something is perfect when it is “complete and contains all requisite…
The post RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so appeared first on Time and Tide Watches.




To celebrate the centennial anniversary of the Bauhaus design movement, Swatch have released the Bau Swatch Collection of 25 new watches inspired by the pre-WWII German school of design. The Bauhaus design philosophy has had significant impact on a number of watch designs over the years, including from Patek Philippe, Nomos and Stowa. Now Swatch have joined the fray, with an appropriately designed collection that celebrates the different elements of the design school’s ideas. If you’re interested in browsing the entire 25-watch collection, you’re able to visit them at the Swatch site, but before you do, these are our highlights. Sistem Bau The Sistem Bau is an automatic offering from the new collection, using the genuinely interesting Sistem51 movement (built totally by robots), which uses only 51 parts, and boasts an impressive 90 hours of power reserve. Elementary Referencing the school-time lessons of primary colours and blocky numerals, this one gives you everything you need, and nothing you don’t. SwatchID A post-modern expression of aggressive block lettering, the SwatchID would make Supreme proud of its liberal use of red and white.
Look, full disclosure. We did not know (or indeed pay) Sherwood to give us this particular answer. But having said that, it’s quite nice to hear someone say they bought a watch off your review. And honestly, of the many (many) watches I’ve reviewed over the years, you could do a whole lot worse than the Grand Seiko SBGA211 ‘Snowflake’. It’s a real modern classic, and a watch that’s full of character and emblematic of what Grand Seiko is all about. Or, as Sherwood puts it: When I look at my watch it’s an immediately calming Snowflake presence that just reminds me of what’s not in front of my desk. And Sherwood’s absolutely right — it is an under-the-radar piece, and the Spring Drive technology is absolutely mesmerising. Well done on a great watch, Sherwood, and here’s to the next one.
Former Australian Prime Minister Bob Hawke, who died in May this year, stands as one of the country’s most colourful — and beloved — political figures. He also enjoyed a particularly long tenure as PM, from March 1983 until December 1991, winning four elections as Labor leader. And while his political legacy includes the creation of Medicare and Landcare, the floating of the Australian dollar, and his removal of any UK jurisdiction over Australian affairs, more popularly he’s remembered as a quintessential larrikin: a swearing, drinking PM who was famous for his ability to skol a can of beer and whose most famous line is arguably his statement, after Australia dramatically won the America’s Cup in 1983, that “any boss who sacks anyone for not turning up today is a bum!” On August 27, Shapiro Auctions is holding the “Bob Hawke & Blanche d’Alpuget Mementos Curiosities Art and Design Auction” at Paddington RSL (an appropriate venue) in Sydney. Amongst the ephemera of a long political career and an obvious love of art, we were struck by four time-related lots: Lot 99 — Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos clock By far my pick of the lots is this Atmos clock. If any clock is indicative…
Editor’s note: Rado’s star is firmly in ascendance these days, and that’s thanks to watches like their popular Captain Cook Reissue. And while we’ve got a whole lot of love for the smaller versions, sometimes — no matter what people say — size does matter. So, how about 45mm of Rado Captain Cook goodness? Rado’s HyperChrome Captain Cook has made waves this year, mostly due to the nearly pitch-perfect 37mm reissue. And while there’s a lot to like about that watch, I suspect that the comparatively petite case size will be a deal-breaker for some people. But that’s OK because Rado has covered their bases by releasing a contemporarily sized 45mm version. It’s not just the case size that’s impressive, but also the construction – with ceramic bezel, hardened titanium case construction and a solid 80 hours of power reserve. Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook 45mm Australian pricing Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook 45mm, $3175