HANDS-ON: The Hublot Classic Fusion Ferrari GT
A Hublot with soft, flowing lines. Now there’s a phrase I never thought I’d write. The Ferrari–Hublot collaboration has produced a stream of watches since 2011, each time with a different look and feel: from Big Bang variations to the outstanding MP-05 LaFerrari and, two years ago, the Techframe. But where the Techframe is all straight lines and strong angles, this new Classic Fusion piece is smooth and curvy – Gran Turismo with beautiful coach-building, rather than high-octane motorsport. In designing this watch, Ferrari’s Centro Stile has taken the automotive metaphor further, suspending the round case within the bezel. The resulting void between the two circles adds both visual and physical lightness, as well as creating extra surfaces where the light can play. Four exposed ‘H’ screws (rather than Hublot’s usual six) attach the case to the bezel and on the 3 o’clock side, a wave-shaped flange curves over the crown and pushers. It looks airy and elegant – very different from the chunky angularity we expect in Hublot cases. Although the overall diameter is 45mm, it feels smaller – and therefore really comfortable on the wrist – yet still oozes strength and presence. In both the King Gold and…
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Seiko’s archive is full of exceptional and much-loved dive watches. One of the brightest lights in this pantheon is the 6105, a real workhorse of the 1970s, and a distinctive one at that — thanks to its large, cushiony case and a crown at four. And while the visuals of the watch certainly didn’t hurt, it’s the combination of good (for the time) water resistance of 150m, Seiko’s reliable build quality and a non-prohibitive price that made this watch such a hit — especially with American soldiers in Vietnam. It’s in this context that the watch received its most famous role, on the wrist of Martin Sheen in Apocalypse Now. Fast forward to 2019 and the 6105 is back, only now it’s the Seiko SLA033, and limited to 2500 pieces. It’s also spectacularly cool. The case has been oh-so-slightly upscaled from the original — measuring 45mm across by 13mm tall — there’s no denying the presence of this piece. It’s made from stainless steel with a super-hard coating. Hidden away behind the solid caseback is the high-end 8L35, and it’s strapped on by a very faithful re-creation of the original strap — only now in silicone. Be warned, though: this…
Bronze — that gold-toned alloy that only gets better with age — has continued its domination of the watch world, and the latest brand to be converted is TAG Heuer, who this week released two bronze versions of their brand new three-handed Autavia. Structurally, it’s the same as the steel Autavias — 42mm across, powered by a Calibre 5 movement running the impressive new Isograph spring, and worn with straps that utilise a smart new quick-change system. But on the aesthetic front, the warm metal, shiny ceramic bezel, smoky green dial, and aged ivory luminous material create a compelling synergy that’s exemplary of the current retro-modern trend. But what I really want to know is – will we end up seeing more bronze in the TAG Heuer assortment in the near future? It could work. I guess that’s a somewhat long-winded way of saying that this watch just looks really great on the wrist. 