Introducing – Ulysse Nardin Freak X Silicium Marquetry
In 2001, Ulysse Nardin introduced a watch – the Freak – that was a complete shock for the industry, not only in terms of design and display but mainly because it was the first timepiece commercialised with silicium parts – a controversial material back then, which has now found its place in dozens of watches. Today, as a sort of tribute to that pioneering use of silicium in a watch, Ulysse Nardin equips its recent Freak X (see more here) with a dial that is actually made of this material, displayed as marquetry.
One of the most interesting — and important — new watch releases I saw while in Geneva recently wasn’t shown at SIHH at all. Rather, it was presented by TAG Heuer. On the surface the watch is typically TAG Heuer, in look and indeed nomenclature — it’s called the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph, and has that large, modular case construction that we’re so familiar with by now, along with carbon lugs and bezels that are straight-up cribbed from their recent Carbon capsule collection. The dial texture is a little different, with a hexagonal structure that looks cool and serves as some neat foreshadowing for the Nano part of the equation. There’s also a popping fluoro highlight that looks cool, and is particularly prominent on the tourbillon cage, which is really what this watch is all about. So, a quick bit of watch-engineering 101 — the balance spring, the beating heart of the regulating organ, sets the pace and is fundamental to effective timekeeping. It’s also delicate, sensitive to the effects of pesky outside influences like gravity, magnetism, temperature and the like. Over the centuries, numerous improvements to the spring have been conceived — including the tourbillon itself (which…
Few names loom larger in the collective consciousness of horological history than Gérald Genta. He’s one of the few individual designers whose name — because of the strength of his work — stands as tall as the great houses for whom he worked. But later in his career, Genta launched his own eponymous brand which demonstrated a penchant for retrograde displays and Disney characters. Eventually, the Genta brand was acquired by Bulgari, who have continued to evolve some of the great designer’s works under their own name, and to great effect. Which was why this watch, presented recently in Geneva, was such a surprise. This special edition platinum piece has been made to honour the 50th anniversary of the founding of the Gérald Genta brand, and it does so in a remarkably faithful way. The DNA of this watch, with the double retrograde movement and stylised, rounded case, is very Genta. Sure, it’s been toned down a little with a simple blue sunburst dial, the characteristic typeface (just check out that GG logo and text at the bottom of the dial — outstanding!) and a case that features Genta’s trademark crown. When I spoke to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani – Bulgari’s…