HANDS-ON: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun in Ceratanium

Materials innovation is looking like quite a thing in 2019 and for you, the watch buyers, that has to be good news: more aesthetic choices and (hopefully) better performance. Which brings us to IWC’s new Top Gun Double Chronograph Ceratanium. Ceratanium? It’s a naturally matt-black finish, but differs from PVD/DLC in one crucial respect: rather than a coating, it’s integral to the base material (its name being a contraction of ceramised and titanium). It’s the product of five years R&D within IWC, and is made by first milling the parts (case, pushers and crown) from a titanium alloy, then subjecting them to intense heat. The composition of the alloy triggers what IWC calls a “diffusion” process, which transforms the structure of the alloy’s surface into ceramic. The result is a best-of-both worlds material – as light and unbreakable as titanium, and as hard and scratch-resistant as ceramic. What’s more, being part of the material itself, the finish cannot chip or wear off as a coating might. To the eye it looks deeply black, with neither sheen nor texture, but seeming to absorb every last suggestion of light. In the hand, the watch feels light yet very substantial. Although Ceratanium isn’t…

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7 years ago

Hands-on – Bvlgari Octo L’Originale Solotempo and Chronograph Dressed in Stylish Black-DLC and Gold

Bvlgari consolidates its winning legion of Octo L’Originale watches with the release of two new variations. With the same architectural design as their Finissimo brothers, who have secured victory after victory in the battle for ultra-thin, the Octo l’Originale watches come with slightly thicker cases, sportier attire and leaner prices. Sheathed in flattering black DLC-coated steel and highlighted with luxurious rose gold details, the sculptural shapes of the Octo case become even more pronounced on these new Octo l’Originale Solotempo and Chronograph watches.

7 years ago

Pre-Baselworld 2019 – Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Bi-Compass – Back to the Instruments

What started in 2005 as a source of inspiration developed into a true leitmotiv for the brand: a circle within a square, a watch inspired and built like an onboard instrument, straight from military planes to the wrist. More recently, Bell & Ross has been exploring new territories and new shapes but the BR01 and BR03 are still the backbones of the collection. As part of the Baselworld 2019 collection, the Parisian-based brand makes a comeback to the cool and much-praised instrument watches, with the new Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Bi-Compass.

7 years ago

Video – The 2019 Bvlgari Collection Explained by CEO Jean-Christophe Babin

The reputation of Bvlgari as a watchmaker is no longer under discussion. For the past five years, the brand has been hyperactive, especially in the field of ultra-thin pieces – which, even though we’re talking miniaturisation and not complications, certainly is one of the most complex fields of expertise in this industry. Today, thanks to […]

7 years ago

LIST: Andrew’s top 3 picks from SIHH 2019 between $10k and $35k, including Panerai, IWC and Ulysse Nardin

This price bracket is a sweet spot for SIHH and the going gets tough when it comes to picking the standouts. One of the benefits of Felix and I splitting our picks this year is that we can cover more ground. That said, we still maintain our habit of not sharing our choices before we go to air. Sometimes there are brand double-ups, more often not. Regular viewers will know that we take spontaneity very seriously. Collusion is just not an option if it’s at the expense of an authentic moment of shock and/or awe. So, to my choices … Panerai Submersible Carbotech 42mm PAM 000960 The pricing has raised eyebrows, but there have been zero complaints about the imaginative styling and colourway chosen for the next gen of the Carbotech, which expresses itself here with an entirely new handset. The 42mm case size will open this stealthy, stylish watch to a new audience. The IWC Spitfire Timezoner The ingenious ‘timezoner’ complication, which allows you to change time zones with a twist of the bezel, is so simple to read and to use that it’s little wonder IWC purchased another brand — Vogard — to acquire it. The Ulysse Nardin Freak X A…

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7 years ago

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski Green Ceramic

When Hublot announced its partnership with French contemporary artist Richard Orlinski back in 2017, I guess you could say I was intrigued. Until then, I hadn’t heard of Orlinski or his Pop Art-style beasts. But after seeing his brightly coloured “Wild Kong” gorilla sculpture, with its multiple diamond-like facets, I knew that a Hublot and Orlinski partnership would be a match made in heaven. And it seems the rest of the world thought so too, because following the success of what is now a full-blown collection, Hublot and Richard Orlinski have teamed up once again. This time Orlinski’s trademark multiple facets have gone green. With the 12 facets of the 45mm case and bezel of the Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Orlinski now crafted in microblasted green ceramic, and created by the French artist using a three-dimensional cambering technique. The green ceramic is rich and dark, not as vibrant as red and blue versions. Like most other models in the Hublot Orlinski collection, visible through the display caseback is the HUB1155 skeleton self-winding chronograph movement, with a Hublot signed rotor maintaining a 42-hour power reserve. And a black, smooth rubber strap holds it to the wrist. This latest Hublot and…

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7 years ago