EDITOR’S PICK: The Raymond Weil Maestro Moon Phase
Editor’s note: The ever-changing beauty of the moon meets the constant charms of Raymond Weil’s musically inspired Maestro. The results are powerful. Call me a romantic, but the moon phase complication is amongst my favourites. Paradoxically, it’s also amongst the least functional — tracking the waxing and waning of our most significant satellite isn’t something that’s high on my list of life priorities. And when the topic does come up, I can, you know, look at the sky. But, really, that’s not the point of a moon phase. It’s a complication of wonder, one that speaks — on a scale far broader than hours or minutes — to the passing of time. It also reminds you that time isn’t an abstract concept, it’s linked to astronomical events — the earth, sun and moon etc. Raymond Weil has done well to capture this overall sense of stargazing whimsy in their Maestro Moon Phase. I mean, sure, the perfectly sized 39.5mm steel case is plain and simple, living up to the classic principles of the Maestro family. The dial, though, is where it really comes alive. Blue tones are the order of the day, but the effect on the wrist is far…
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At first glance, Panerai’s watches share a reassuring familiarity — large cases, large crown guards and a dial design that puts legibility front and centre. A close look at the catalogue will show that the brand born from its Italian diving heritage has quite a lot of diversity on offer, particularly when it comes to case materials. From bronze to ceramic and (most recently) Bulk Metallic Glass, Panerai has strong form when it comes to material innovation. And today we’re having a closer look at one of the most interesting examples from recent times: Carbotech. Before we talk about the case material, let’s step back for a second and look at the bigger picture. PAM00616 is a 47mm Luminor Submersible, one of the brand’s beefiest cases, good for 300m of depth, and a standout thanks to the solid dive bezel and that patented crown guard. The watch is impressive on the inside, too, with a big P.9000 calibre ticking away, a double-barrelled beauty that’s good for three days of power. It’s a watch that you might reasonably expect to weigh the wrist down. But it doesn’t. That’s where the Carbotech comes in. Aside from its obvious visual charms, Carbotech is…
To my mind, the watches coming out of Hublot’s partnership with contemporary artist Richard Orlinski have been some of the brand’s most striking. The bold, geometric look manages to be both in keeping with Hublot’s design ethos, while looking on-trend. At the heart of this, Orlinski’s appeal is the facets, which allows the typically blocky case of the Classic Fusion to play with light and shade in intriguing ways. This titanium-cased Alternative Pavé version of the Orlinski takes the faceted concept to the next level by adding 312 finely faceted diamonds into the mix. There are 156 diamonds, set in two rows on the bezel, and a further 156 set into the case. The total weight of the stones is around 2 carats. The fully set bezel certainly provides a very pretty frame for the skeletonised dial, but for me it’s the rocks on the case that stand out. Seemingly random, alternating facets have been pavé set (giving the watch its name), with the diamond-free titanium surfaces polished to a high, mirror-like shine. The effect is, quite frankly, stunning. Now, I know stones on watches aren’t to everyone’s taste, and I understand why. Often, the use of diamonds is done…
