Hands-on – The New Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri SPB085, with Stunning Hand-Lacquered Dial
Since its worldwide introduction in 2016, the Seiko Presage collection never ceased to impress. It all started with superb limited edition chronographs with enamel or hand-lacquered Urushi dials (just that…), watches that have been followed by regular production models with enamel dials or funky “cocktail” inspiration, as well as impressive limited editions such as the Shippo. In two years, Seiko has made Presage a collection as interesting as Prospex. Following this trend, the brand unveils today a new limited edition, the Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri SPB085 – and here again, it brings traditional, hand-made Urushi at a stunning price level.
Watches inspired by military designs are a perennial favourite. Largely, that’s down to the fact that these watches generally possess an overarching purpose. These watches have been designed, first and foremost, as functional objects. The Longines Heritage Military, for example, is a no-frills whistle that tells the time, and tells it quickly, clearly and simply. Of course, that purity of purpose typically flows down to a purity of design, and the Heritage Military — with its clear railroad minute track and simple Arabic numerals, its large, easy to manipulate crown and decorative-yet-functional hands — is exemplary. However, that’s not to say that Longines hasn’t added some contemporary design flourish to their historically inspired piece. Look at the dial. It’s a near-perfect facsimile of a decades-old dial that bears the signs and the patina of a life well lived. However, this dial is brand new. It’s also unique. As a result of the production process, each pattern of flecks and marks on the dial is individual to the watch, which is pretty cool. Longines Heritage Military Australian pricing Longines Heritage Military, $2775
Over the last few years, Seiko has made a habit of releasing limited editions with exceptional enamel dials at very reasonable prices. First, there was the Moonlit Night, then the Shippo enamel, and now, the Urushi Byakudan-nuri. The vehicle for these delicate, incredible dials is the Presage collection. A classic round steel watch that marries dependability with dressability. But really, this 40.5mm case, and the 6R21 movement behind it are known quantities, and not what we’re here for. Honestly, we’re here for the dial. As is common with Seiko’s watches, especially the special, limited ones, there’s a story to this dial. It has been designed to evoke the look of the night sky just before dawn. This narrative goes a long way to explaining the unusual colour palette of the Byakudan-nuri. The base of the dial is made using the traditional Urushi technique we’ve seen on other limited edition Presage models. Here though, it’s jet black. The calendar subdials, crafted through the Byakudan-nuri technique, are in a deep, rich red, achieved with a careful sprinkling of fine metallic powder. Though the red is quite dark, it’s anything but dull, thanks to the way it plays in the light. This red…
