HODINKEE Radio: Episode 20: Stellene Volandes
The editor-in-chief of Town & Country sits down to talk watches, jewelry, and the joys of making magazines.
Hands-on – Brellum Duobox Pandial Black-DLC
Brellum is a niche independent watch brand that was launched just two years ago by Sebastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker in the Swiss Jura. His first model, the Duobox, is a no-nonsense chronograph offering excellent value for the money. Recently, the collection received a cool-looking Panda version (white dial with black sub-counters) – the “Pandial”, reviewed here – and today, this model gains boldness with a new black DLC-coated case. Meet the Brellum Duobox Pandial Black-DLC.
HANDS-ON: Seriously fun, the gold and steel Omega Seamaster 300M Diver
I’ve got to say, for a watch born in the middle of the ’90s, the Omega Seamaster 300M Diver is looking pretty glorious. Partially that’s down to the fresh facelift and major internal upgrade, but it goes deeper than that. The SMP — as it’s known — knows what it is, and revels in that identity. And nowhere is that dual nature of flashy meets functionality more evident than this steel and yellow gold beauty. The flashy elements are immediately apparent — it’s hard to miss that striking black and gold bezel, the golden crown and (re-worked) helium escape valve. And then there’s the glossy black dial, laser-engraved with the (in?)famous wave pattern, and it seems like every other surface has been buffed to a high gleam. But there’s substance under the showiness. Starting with the rubber strap — a (very comfortable) choice that immediately signals that this watch means business, and not the suit-and-tie kind. And then the overall build quality is legendary; the dial is super legible and fully loaded with lume. Flip the watch over and, behind the scalloped Naiad lock, the top-notch Calibre 8800 is proudly on display. Because while the oh-so-slightly upsized case size and…
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VIDEO: Bare bones — the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph
For all that skeletonised watches are meant to be about reducing mass, the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph is a watch with a lot of substance, and much of it ceramic. The case, middle, bezel and bracelet are all made from Rado’s signature material, and have been treated with a range of processes — keeping it interesting on the wrist. Though having said that, the dial also does a fine job in the ‘interesting’ department. Sure, you get a peep into the inner workings of the automatic chronograph movement, along with a quite legible handset, but what I really like is the under-the-dial printing, which is delicate and very much in keeping with Rado’s designer aesthetic. All this, combined with the 45mm case size, adds up to an unmissable watch. The Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph Limited Edition Australian pricing The Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph Limited Edition, limited to 600 pieces, $9475
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Sunday Rewind: When World Record Watches Start To Get Weird
Sometimes the road to a world record is simple – and sometimes it’s anything but.
In-Depth – Omega and the PloProf Research Programme – Innovation in Professional Dive watches (incl. Pioneering use of 904L Steel for Watches)
By the early 1940s, Emile Gagnan and Jacques-Yves Cousteau’s Aqualung – the first commercially successful self-contained underwater breathing apparatus (a.k.a Scuba)- had become a worldwide phenomenon. Along with the growing popularity of recreational diving, the needs of military and professional divers underscored the paramount importance of reliable sub-aquatic instruments. Developed in 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is often regarded as the archetype of the dive watch: a robust, highly legible watch, water-resistant to great depths (91 meters, in this instance) and equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel to time dives.
RECOMMENDED READING: Time to learn — the watch industry’s next great challenge
The watch industry is — make no mistake — an industry, driven by bottom lines and production schedules. It’s also a deeply traditional craft with a long and rich lineage. A lineage fine watch brands are exceptionally proud of. And business — by and large — is good. So why are an increasing number of leading watchmakers, brands, and watchmaking bodies worried about an impending crisis? In this article for The New York Times, Robin Swithinbank explores an unintended consequence of the growing popularity of mechanical watches — the death of skills, knowledge and appreciation of the fine art of watchmaking. And while an interest in watches is a good start, it’s just the beginning. Read the full article here.
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Weekend Round-Up: Explaining CIA Disguises, Behind Hockney’s Portrait Of An Artist, And Rare Shots Of Muhammad Ali
The week’s can’t-miss stories from around the web.
OPINION: When to go for gold
You know who you are, and you know why you’re here — and it’s totally fine. You’ve found yourself at the inevitable crossroad that all collectors come to. You’re finally in the position to buy something that you never thought you’d like, but as your tastes have evolved, you’re struggling to resist it. When you first started collecting watches, you swore it was too obnoxious, gaudy and ‘flashy’ … yet, here you are, lusting after a gold watch — not knowing how to handle it. Firstly, it’s okay. Like I said, we’ve all been there, often without realising. Maybe it happened when you were at your local dealer, who only had that model you wanted in white gold. Maybe you tried on a friend’s piece and fell in love with the weight of the metal. You want gold, and you’re trying to work out if you can pull it off, and, ultimately, whether it’s the right decision for you. Well, here’s everything you need to know. Obstacles Now, before we tackle the various ‘obstacles’ (in #firstworldproblems air quotes) to buying a gold watch, it’s important to see where you fit in the customer type. There are a few different types of gold watch…
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EDITOR’S PICK: 10 actors wearing the hell out of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Editor’s note: Few watches are as effortlessly elegant and stylish as the venerable Reverso, which is perhaps why they’re a go-to choice for those who strut the silver screen. Don’t believe us? Here are 10 proof points … I’m no prop master, but I know when I’d reach for a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso to dress a character’s wrist. It would be when they had a scene in a suit. It would be at a point in their character trajectory when they were at peak confidence, when their outward style is tapping into the classic, the iconic, the timeless. And also when the brand of badass they’re seeking to project is more brains than brawn. You suspect this was precisely the thought process of the art directors and prop masters that did just that with these kings of the screen. Pierce Brosnan. Ah, Pierce. He may have bombed as Bond but the man knows how to work black tie. The key is having an accessory in the mix that pops on the monochrome backdrop, and few accessories can compete with a gold dress watch with white face and black leather strap. The additional fact that it’s an unusual shape also catches attention.…
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