EDITOR’S PICK: Bare metal – Tudor’s Black Bay Steel
Editor’s note: Colour is great, but sometimes all you need is the pure simplicity of unvarnished (but very nicely brushed) steel. Which is exactly what the pared-back Black Bay Steel offers. In spades. The story in a second: When the going gets tough, wear a Black Bay Steel. Did you know that this year the Black Bay family is five years old? Well, it is, and the fundamental design isn’t showing any signs of flagging. Case in point is this watch, which represents the Black Bay stripped back to its essentials. The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel. The case There’s not too much to be said about the case of the Black Bay Steel that hasn’t already been said about every other Black Bay. It’s steel, it’s 41mm across and has those high, smooth sides that make the Black Bay such an easy watch to spot from under a cuff — though it must be said the big Tudor rose on the crown is a bit of a giveaway, too. The real point of difference here is, as you’d expect, the bezel. The watch takes its name from the radially brushed steel bezel, and while in style and design it’s…
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Editor’s note: I really don’t need a moon phase (heck, I really don’t need a mechanical watch, but that’s something else entirely), but I really want one. There’s just something so pointlessly romantic about the whole proposition of knowing your wax from your wane that just gets me (in fact, that same sentiment applies to mechanical watches in general). And one of the most charming options in recent times is this beauty from JLC … ‘Novelty’ is one of the most abused words in the watch industry. Practically, it’s used to describe the steady stream of new models and designs being produced by watchmaking brands. But on top of that, it conveys a sense of newness and — marketing departments fervently hope — excitement. For example, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2017 novelties were their Master Control trilogy — they excited people, and rightfully so. And while this grey-dialled Master Ultra Thin Moon is a new release, it’s not really a novelty — it didn’t make headlines at SIHH, and doesn’t showcase any innovations in mechanics or material. But despite this (or perhaps because of it), this serious, ghostly grey Master Ultra Thin Moon is an exceptionally beautiful piece of watchmaking, the sort that JLC excels…
A few months ago I ended up wearing the Omega Seamaster 300 for a month or so. Now, unusually for me, this wasn’t a PR sample or anything, but an actual real watch, that I borrowed off a mate who wanted to try one of my watches on for size. Now, I’m typically hesitant to do this, as I would hate something to happen to the watch when it’s in my care. “Don’t worry,” said my mate, “I’m not precious.” Somewhat comforted by these words, I made my way to a local cafe to complete the hand-off. Several coffees and much amiable watch banter later, I walked off with the Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial (to give it its full name) buckled onto my wrist. My first impression was … jeez, he really wasn’t joking about not being precious — this watch is well-loved. Which is something I don’t get to see too much. The watches I review typically come in box-fresh condition, but that’s not what happens in the real world. Buckles, one of the main points where your watch meets the world, quickly gain a unique, swirled and dented character all their own, and the watch behind tells a tale…
