HANDS-ON: Grand Seiko’s dressy GMT – the SBGM235
Most of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches are built around one base — the 9S calibre, which turns 20 years old this year. The brand has celebrated with a series of limited editions, and this, the SBGM235, is the latest. Coming from the brand’s elegance collection, the SBGM235 follows the same fundamental form as the cream-dialled SBGM221, with a 39.5mm round steel case, and the 24 scale nested neatly inside the typically faceted and polished Grand Seiko hour markers. And while the fundamental design of the watch may be familiar, it’s the details that stand out. On the back, the 9S66 movement is celebrated with a commemorative caseback in Grand Seiko’s distinctive dark blue. And while that’s nice, it’s the dial where the action is. Like other 9S commemorative models, the dial is printed with a radial mosaic pattern, a pretty repeating motif of ‘G’ ‘S’ and the older Daini Seikosha logo. And while the other 9S anniversary pieces make liberal use of colour, the SBGM235 keeps it clean with a plain silver dial, with the exception of the GMT functions (hands and hour indicators) in blue. It’s a classy and distinguished Grand Seiko that wears well on the wrist, and…
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Story in a second: All the complications you could possibly want in a Panerai, in a small(er) package. There’s something about Panerai that I’ve always found fascinating. I don’t know if it’s because of the instantly recognisable shape of the case, the origins of the brand as a supplier of wrist-worn diving instruments to the Italian Navy, or simply the fact that they have got a certain presence on the wrist. Whatever it is, I’ve always wanted to get one, but it took a little while for me to find the right one. Other than the fact that they represent a fairly sizeable investment, I was concerned that the typical 44mm or 47mm models would look too bulky on my wrist. This all changed recently, when I got my hands on the *takes a deep breath* Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio 42mm, better known as the PAM01537. The dial The dial itself is black, with a beautiful “Clous de Paris”, or Paris hobnail textured pattern, which, rather romantically, takes inspiration from the streets of Paris. The luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers are in the classic Panerai style, easily legible in any environment. The watch has two…
Few things are as tactile and pleasing as manually winding a watch, and I’ve got to say the levels of satisfaction achieved in watching the power reserve indicator on this plus-sized Portofino are pretty intense. On one level it’s because there’s a lot of winding to be had, thanks to the eight days of power, but partially I think the joy is simply because this large 45mm red gold watch just feels great — heavy, substantial and downright powerful. At its heart, the Portofino is a dressy watch. Simple, refined, with a curvaceous case inspired by the pocket watches of yore. But the Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase is no diminutive dress option. It’s as bold as a Big Pilot, but still somehow delicate. The expansive dial looks wonderful in shimmering slate grey — a colour that pairs exceptionally well with the red gold hands, markers and case, and manages to encompass the diverse displays of moonphase, sub-seconds, date and power reserve without looking cluttered or busy. No mean feat. For me, though, what I like most about this watch isn’t visible from the front – it’s the big, beating heart of the watch, the mighty Calibre 59800, which makes the…
Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the supersonic aircraft, Concorde, Bremont have just released a trio of limited-edition models that not only pay homage but also incorporate a small piece of the iconic passenger jet in each case. Growing up, I remember being in absolute awe of the Concorde. With its air-piercing design and droop-down nose section – tilting down during take-offs and landings so the pilots could see the runway – and its way pushed back ogee-shaped wings that made it look like it was already moving at twice the speed of sound before it even left the hangar. Ten-year-old me would have given anything to be a passenger on just one sound-barrier-breaking transatlantic flight – hell, even now, 30-something-year-old me would do some bad things. The days of the Concorde were numbered, however, and British Airways retired its supersonic fleet on October 24, 2003, with the final worldwide flight taking place on November 26, 2003 – 34 years after it first took to the skies in 1969. Partnering with British Airways, aluminium from Alpha Bravo – the G-BOAB Concorde, which is in storage at Heathrow Airport – has been machined into a ring that sits just below the Bremont…
