Hands-on – Bovet “Monsieur Bovet” – Wristwatch, Pocket Watch and Desk Clock in One

There is something special about the Bovet Monsieur… This subtly sophisticated watch is imbued with a sense of nostalgia for a bygone elegance. Its classical lines are clearly inspired by pocket watches. And it is no coincidence that this versatile watch incorporates Bovet’s patented Amadeo convertible case concept. Not one watch, but four watches at once. Here is our take on the new Bovet “Monsieur Bovet”

8 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition

In the wonderful world of Grand Seiko, if it’s not using a quartz crystal – and, yes, that includes the Spring Drive – then inside is a Caliber 9S movement. Introduced in 1998, the Caliber 9S is the staple of all mechanical Grand Seikos and forms the base for everything from humble three-handers to hi-beats and GMTs. This year, Grand Seiko are celebrating the 20th birthday of the 9S with – in addition to quite a few other LEs – the release of the Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT “Special” Limited Edition. Vital statistics Inside is a very “special” version of the Caliber 9S86 movement. Adjusted to six positions and allowing for changes in temperature, the movement exceeds the already stringent accuracy tolerances set by Grand Seiko, and is accurate to within +4 to -2 seconds per day, while it still features the added functionality of a GMT hand, and runs at 10 beats per second for up to 55 hours. This particular version of the 9S86 is now kept running by an oscillating weight made from titanium and tungsten. Visible through a sapphire crystal case back, the titanium sections of the weight are treated with an anodic oxidation…

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8 years ago

LIST: 3 new Bremont watches that grabbed my attention at their London boutique

When in London, it’d be rude not to drop in and see one of their (very few) British watch brands – Bremont. Luckily, the brand’s co-founder Giles English happened to be around their Mayfair boutique and up for a cup of tea. I might’ve had a coffee, but that didn’t stop Giles and I chatting through some of the brand’s recent releases. As I stepped out of the cold into the warmth of their store, I welcomed by one of the coolest store-fits I’ve ever experienced. If you’ve visited a Bremont Boutique, you know what I’m talking about. It’s not often you see a Martin-Baker ejection seat on display. Immediately, Giles pulled out a piece, the Bremont Endurance, which was worn and tested by polar explorer Ben Saunders in Antarctica. Needless to say, it was impressive to see a watch that lasted 52 days in Antarctica (which is 52 more than I would)! Giles then brought over a tray of new releases. Having been launched just weeks before my visit, I hadn’t had the opportunity to see them in person. Aside from the ice-cool Endurance, three others from the new collection caught my eye. First up was the brand new Bremont Airco…

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8 years ago

Hands-on – Breguet Marine 5517 – A Trilogy of 3-Handers With a More Contemporary Design Ethos

Breguet’s Marine family of maritime-inspired luxury sports watches welcomes three new members to the nautical club. Less conservative and grandiose than Breguet’s usual fare, the three models of the Marine 5517 – in 18k white gold, 18k rose gold and titanium cases – come with a splash of contemporary styling. A traditional three-hand watch with date functions, the 5571 trilogy plays with juxtaposing shapes, textures and materials to appeal to a broader public.

8 years ago

Value Proposition – Hanhart Pioneer One, a No-Frills Vintage Pilot Watch

Founded in 1882, Hanhart can look back on a long watchmaking tradition. The brand is known for crafting robust and functional watches, and, in particular by vintage fans for its pilot watches/chronographs from the 1930s to 1950s. The Pioneer collection was launched in 2011 with this long-lasting tradition in mind. The historical inspiration for this line comes more specifically from a model from the 50s, the 417 ES Flyback (Cal. 42). The Black Forest manufacturer now launches the Pioneer One, a stylish yet affordable time-only pilot watch with vintage charm.

8 years ago

HANDS-ON: With the winning Omega Olympic Official Timekeeper collection

Though technically introduced ahead of Baselworld 2018, the fair provided the first opportunity to take a first-hand look at the latest Omega watch collection for the 2018 Olympics, and to be perfectly frank, I was more than impressed. More oft than not, Omega’s releases tied to the Olympic Games can be quite hit-and-miss. Case in point, the Mark II Speedmaster launched for Rio in 2016 was a home run, whereas the white dial Seamaster for the Vancouver 2010 Games (with a cherry-red bezel) was a bit lacklustre. This year, a collection of five dressy vintage-inspired Seamaster watches (one in each of the ring colours) have been unveiled, taking design cues from an Omega stopwatch created for the 1976 Montreal Games, which in press imagery looked like a real winner. Here’s what you need to know. Vital statistics Right out of the gates, there’s a lot to love about these new Seamaster models. Powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer certified Calibre 8800, you’re getting top-spec Omega. A 55-hour power reserve, silicon balance spring, and magnetic resistance up to 15,000 Gauss. Shy of the small Olympic rings at six o’clock (below the date), these pieces certainly don’t scream “Olympic edition” but rather…

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8 years ago

HANDS-ON: Raymond Weil bares all with the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton

When Raymond Weil designed the Calibre RW1212, their first ever in-house design (produced by Sellita), I suspect part of the mandate was to show it off, hence the open escapement prominently on display — literally showing off a movement they’re rightfully proud of. Well, Raymond Weil doubled down at Basel 2018, exposing not just the escapement but the whole dial, thanks to a new series of skeletonised Freelancers. As you’d expect, there’s a range of new offerings on the table, but the one that impressed us was this modern sporty number, with what remains of the dial done in crisp white, with contrasting blue hands and hour markers, with their appealing, slightly bulbous shape. It’s also worth noting that both hands and hours are lumed — a nice, useful addition. But really, the dial is dominated by the, well, lack of dial. The open-worked dial really gives you a look behind the scenes, showing off not only the escapement but the power barrel at 12 (which could, in a pinch, be used as a very, very rough power reserve indicator), and the power train on the nine o’clock side. The crown gearing is partially obscured by the Raymond Weil branding, the…

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8 years ago