Watch Dandy

Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic

A bold new take on the brand’s star chronograph is rendered in bright red ceramic.

Interview – In Conversation With Nick Harris, Founder of Orion and Watches By Nick

A somewhat surprising, yet very encouraging trend seems to be emerging in our tiny watch ecosystem. Young people from around the world, millennials who aren’t supposed to even care about traditional (‘outdated’) technology, are discovering a passion for mechanical wristwatches. And what’s more, they are finding interesting ways to explore and develop their own ideas, leveraging the boom in crowdfunding to help them create their own products and brands, many of which offer genuinely interesting additions to an already crowded market.

This seems all the more remarkable when you consider that none of these young creators has ever even had the need to wear a wristwatch, thanks largely to the advent of things like smartphones. Still, they are making the active choice to be a part of this world and to try and make a living from mechanical wristwatches. Today, we’re speaking to one such individual, a young man from the USA by the name of Nick Harris. The Seiko fans among you might recognise Nick’s name from his first watch-related project, Watches by Nick, which focused on modifying Seiko watches. Now, he’s studying full-time at watchmaking school and has launched his own brand, Orion, to help fund his studies.

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Seamaster Railmaster

The story in a second: Behind the ultra-hyped trilogy models lays this cool, calm and not-in-any-way limited take on the Railmaster. Odd as it may seem today, but many of the enduring designs of mid-twentieth century watchmaking sprang from a very specific purpose: scientific exploration and the quest for accuracy. The Omega Railmaster, one of their original professional models, stands alongside other great names like the Milgauss, the Ingenieur and the Geophysic. And last year the Railmaster received a major upgrade. Not just in the near 1:1 limited edition re-creation but in this new interpretation: the Seamaster Railmaster. The case Not too little, not too large: 40mm is pretty much perfect for this style of watch, but that’s not all that stands out. The case is pretty much identical in form to the Aqua Terra, except for the finishing. While the AT is all about polished lines and reflected light, the Railmaster is muted and matt, thanks to its satin-brushed finish, something that totally fits with the model’s utilitarian origin story. The crown is conical and easy to use (always a plus in my book), and the lugs are that sweeping twisted style that is such a hallmark of Omega.…

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WHO TO FOLLOW: @justinmfrost

This week’s Who to Follow is a little closer to home than usual. Justin Mastine-Frost has been writing for us on and off over the last few years, so we’re obviously fans. But his passion for the independent, the odd, and not to mention the colourful, means that we think he’s well worth a follow. Hey Justin, tell me about yourself. Who I am is a loaded question. Canadian by birth, transplanted to New York City for a few years, and now I’m back in Canada. To run you through the brief history lesson, I’ve been a guitarist, a sales clerk, a photographer, a construction foreman, BMW mechanic, and a journalist in a variety of fields including automotive, travel, lifestyle and horology. At 34 years old, you can say I’ve worn a few hats over my lifetime. What do you love? When you boil it right down, I love experience. I love food, I love travelling, I love meeting people and discovering their backstory — what brought them to where they are today. How do you unwind? That very much depends on the options at hand. During the day-to-day grind, a good Netflix binge or an evening out with good…

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Hands-on – Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic – The Entry-Level to JLC’s new Sports Collection

Jaeger-LeCoultre takes a decidedly elegant plunge into the sports watch arena with the 2018 Polaris Collection. Reviewed here in detail, the five new members of the Polaris family are clearly descendants of the legendary Memovox Polaris model of 1968, revisited with just the right mix of vintage styling and contemporary tweaks. The Polaris Automatic is the simplest, smallest (41mm) and most contemporary looking model in the collection offering time only indications and an attractive entry-level price. For those of you who suffer from ‘datewindowphobia’, you will be pleased to discover that there is no such thing on this model allowing for an unobstructed, uninterrupted view of the dial. Smart enough to wear to the office yet rugged and sporty enough for 100-metre dives, the Polaris Automatic is as versatile as they come with a great history to boot.

VIDEO: We polled people about the Panerai Luminor vs the Radiomir and the results are in

Well, at the end of a week that has focused on Panerai watches, the votes are in. In a recent Instagram poll, 66 per cent of you said that the Luminor is their preferred collection. About the same split could be seen in the comments on various posts. There’s little mystery as to why it wins. It’s all about that ingenious crown guard, that beefs up the cushion case and gives the Luminor its iconic, recognisable presence on the wrist. It could also have something to do with the sheer volume of movie and celebrity appearances the Luminor pulls each year. It’s a heavyweight fighter in the watch world and, given Panerai’s relatively diminutive size as a company compared to the big box brands, it punches well above its weight. To round out the week’s mini-series which compared them in the same video, then split out into two individual reviews, we have a Luminor Marina 8 Days Acciaio PAM 00590 in front of the lens now.

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LIST: 5 sporty Kickstarter watches that caught our eye

Here at Time+Tide we receive a lot – and I mean A LOT – of emails from young brands directing us to their new watch launching on Kickstarter. The humble platform that began as a way for up-and-coming designers to tender their ideas – and, if they were good enough, have them brought to life – now crowded by cookie-cutter designs, each touting the same old story. Sorting the good from the less good can be a massive task. However, every now and then, through the fog of “industry disruptors” and “affordable luxury”, shine a few gems that, at least we think, are worthy of a second take. Here are five examples from the sportier end of the Kickstarter spectrum. Laventure Marine The Laventure Marine can more than boast about its Swiss-made designation, with more than 90 per cent of the watch produced in Switzerland. With a 200m water-resistant case inspired by dive watches of the 1960s, namely the Patek Philippe Nautilus, this is a sports watch made for exploring. And it’s good-looking to boot, with a stunning array of colourful dial options – blue, green or brown – and a nicely decorated ETA 2824-2 movement inside. 1670 CHF. Moduco…

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Inside The Manufacture: Montblanc’s Pen Factory And Museum In Hamburg

You might not know this, but the well known maker of wristwatches also happens to make pens.

Hands-on – Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa Chronor – The Golden Shape Of Things To Come

Parmigiani Fleurier’s Kalpa collection was given the red-carpet treatment in 2018 and fitted with in-house movements customised to match the shape of its distinctive, tonneau cases. As part of the brand’s mission to obtain “consistency between the contents and the container,” shaped movements will be animating the hearts of all future Kalpa watches.