Hands-on – IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years”
With IWC introducing so many limited-edition references for its 150th anniversary this year (there are 27 in total), it’s been hard work picking a favourite. The blue dial Portugieser Chronograph is certainly high on the list, as of course is the Tribute to Pallweber. If I had to choose just one, however, I think it would have to be the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years” (IW503405). Striking design, practical complexity and a dial I could literally stare at for hours, it really does offer a lot of watch for the money.
With parts one and two of our SIHH video series receding into our proverbial rear-view mirror, it’s time to look to the future, and the future is looking, well, expensive. Today, we’re well and truly in the realm of serious horology. And, as with yesterday, we’re keen to avoid spoilers, so to find out what Andrew, Sandra and Justin would choose if they had a spare $20-30K in their pockets, hit play. I do think it’s only fair to warn you that we’re a tad disorganised at the start of this one. However, I’ll spill the beans on my pick — the IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition ‘150 years’. Now, to be honest, I didn’t pick it for the less-than-pithy name but rather the fact that it’s a watch that looks back at IWC’s heritage and honours it. For me, the red gold, white and blue Portugieser Nailed. It.
Last year, I went hands-on with the sleek three-handed TAG Heuer Link, which saw itself revived into the men’s collection after letting the ladies Link have the first turn in 2016. While the makeover leaned more towards the elegant side of the Link’s sporting elegance roots, this year sees a sportier return to the collection, with the introduction of a tri-compax chronograph. Vital statistics Featuring a sunray dial of either black or blue, there’s an angled date window at 4:30, accompanied by a small seconds subdial at 3 o’clock, a chronograph minute counter at 9 o’clock, and an hour counter at 6 o’clock. With all three cross-hair-centre subdials finished in a light-reflecting snailed pattern. However, regardless of the extra information, surrounding the open dial is the same 41mm stainless-steel case that sits somewhere between round and cushion-shaped with a water resistance of 100 metres. Its two-part bezel, made up of four subtle corners that are contrasted by a satin-brushed circle on the inside, and soft curves that gently transition into the famously ergonomic (and silky smooth) S-shaped linked bracelet, foregoing the need for lugs. Only now, flanking either side of the guarded crown are two elongated pushers that control the Calibre…
Yesterday, we ran through our picks of SIHH 2018 at the more accessible end of the spectrum, bearing in mind that the HH in SIHH stands for ‘High Horology’. Today, we kick it up a notch, looking at watches that come in between $10-$20k. There are a lot of meaty options in this price point, something that’s reflected in the fairly diverse opinions of Sandra, Andrew, Justin and myself – as we’ve picked out simple, time-only pieces as well as some more complex pieces. I’m not going to spoil the surprise (or the LOLs), but take, for example, Justin’s pick – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT, a watch that is just over the top end of our budget but offers a strong mix of world time and chronograph complication in a stylish sports case and with a pretty exceptional movement. Or, as Justin puts it: “I’ve always found it hard to find a nice world time chronograph with more then 30-minute registers. It drives me bonkers.” We hear you, Justin, we hear you. Now, onto our top watches of SIHH 2018, between $10,000 and $20,000, Stay tuned as things get more expensive tomorrow.