SIHH 2018: The State Of The Watchmaking Industry (VIDEO)
Swiss executives predict last year’s recovery will continue, but they’re not out of the woods yet.
Swiss executives predict last year’s recovery will continue, but they’re not out of the woods yet.
To me, one of the true marks of a great watch manufacturer is the ability to make interesting and desirable timepieces across a range of price points. Unfortunately, few brands seem to be able to achieve this with any consistency. There are exceptions of course, and A. Lange & Söhne is most certainly one of them. Proving my point is the new Saxonia Outsize Date, which was officially launched last month at SIHH 2018. We managed to spend a bit of hands-on time with the watch and can confirm it is as nice on the wrist as it looks in the photos.
The soccer great wore his left-handed diver at the announcement of his new Miami MLS franchise.
This review will feature not one, but two watches of a small, Italian brand we recently introduced; Orologi Calamai. When being in touch with the brand, and reviewing their CR42 Chrono earlier this year, I learned a new watch was coming. Being a quintessential Italian brand focusing on watches with an aviation look and feel, the Calamai family were developing the new G50 MKIII Solotempo. A simple, yet effective time only watch. We review it right here and now.
Late last year, Seiko announced a series of limited edition Prospex divers, featuring blacked-out cases and the evocative name of ‘The Black Series’. The story behind the name and the black-and-orange concept is the murky, mysterious world of night diving. But honestly, for me this watch is less about the story behind it and more about the sheer hotness of the watches. It’s fair to say that the darling of the trio is the SRPC49K, a stealthy take on their popular ‘Turtle’. But there are two other options in the mix. We’ll look at the chronograph tomorrow, but today we’re focusing on the three-hander, which is perhaps the most conventional of the three. Formally known as the SNE493P1, this 43.5mm cased watch is the epitome of a classic dive watch, albeit in a much darker livery than usual. The dark case doesn’t have any impact on legibility, with a multi-layered dial dominated by the large hour markers filled with a rich, orange/tan luminous materials and a familiar Seiko diver’s handset, with a bold, neon orange minutes hands, a choice driven by the strict visual hierarchy of a dive watch — where the minutes are more critical than hours. There’s also…
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A tech-forward watch that offers a lot to talk about.
In the watchmaking world, there is the chronograph complication – in itself a complex type of movement that is hard to develop and to assemble. Then, there is the flyback chronograph, allowing for an instant reset-start of the timing session. And for years, right at the top of the food chain was the Split Seconds or rattrapante chronograph – the ultimate version of the stopwatch. That was the status quo until A. Lange & Söhne came on the market with a watch nicknamed by collectors the “Mighty Double Split” or the “Über-Chronograph“, a timepiece with split seconds and split minutes. This year, at the SIHH 2018, A. Lange & Söhne presented the Triple Split, the “mighter than mighty” version of its rattrapante chronograph. One watch that holds sway over them all…
One of the biggest motorsports events of the year is also a major watch-fest.
An attractive modern diver now in a very wearable size.
Bulgari made quite an impact last year when they unveiled their record-breaking, ultra-thin Octo Finissimo Automatic. In total, the sand-blasted titanium case measured just 5.15mm thick, an incredible achievement and one that in my opinion, looks absolutely superb on the wrist. Others, however, found it simply too thin, not to mention, also quite expensive. Fortunately for those people, Bulgari’s new Octo L’Originale SoloTempo Titanium offers a very similar aesthetic, in a slightly thicker case and at a more wallet-friendly price point.