5 Cool Watches By Indie Watchmakers Launched Next to the SIHH

As SIHH 2018 excitement has settled down, it is time for us to look at some of the watches presented in Geneva (understand, not at the SIHH) that week, in particular, some we have not covered yet – or only with press pictures. LVMH brands exposed on a boat on the Geneva Lake or hotels, while several independent watchmakers showcased their latest creations in different locations across the city. Last but not least, the WPHH (World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie) was the opportunity for Frank Muller, Cvstos, Backes & Strauss and other affiliated brands to present their novelties at their Watchland site in Genthod.

8 years ago

VIDEO: All thriller, no filler – Felix’s 5 favourites from SIHH 2018 

If you’ve been paying attention to my recent spate of best-of/top lists (and if you haven’t, what’s wrong with you?!), you’ll know that I have a sense of style and taste that is dazzling in its brilliance, mercurial in its consistency, and as sophisticated as white tie at a garden party. I’ve recently sung my praises for gem-set wonders, hi-tech wrist gadgets that stretch the conceptual definition of ‘watch’, and occasionally a smaller, vintage-inspired piece. So, going into SIHH 2018, knowing that I’d have to come up with a smart, snappy and sassy ‘top 5’ a few days later, I was filled with wonder and anticipation. Would I be drawn to outstanding statement pieces (the thinnest, the expensivest, the eroticest) or would I rein myself in and keep it real? Nobody knew, least of all myself … until now. So, without any further superlative (or is that superfluous?) waffle – here’s my SIHH top 5. Cartier Santos de Cartier A smart reworking of an icon that manages to be — depending on which option you opt for — either totally OTT (that’d be the full yellow gold) or perfect for everyday office (steel on leather, obvs). But it’s the user-friendly…

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8 years ago

The New Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback, with a Bronze or Aged Steel Case

If the early El Primero watches (the ref. A386 in particular), fitted with one of the very first automatic chronograph movements, are certainly the most iconic pieces produced by the Le Locle-based manufacture, another watch has gained quite some fame recently: the Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Cairelli. Already reissued in 2016 in a limited edition, some new, non-limited versions of the Cairelli-inspired watch have been presented, with exotic materials and a new flyback function – quite relevant for a pilot chronograph. Meet the new Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback, with Bronze or Aged-Steel case.

8 years ago

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon Clarity Octopus… Extravagant But Mechanically Fascinating

Clearly, this watch is far from usual standards, in terms of elegance and proportions. Clearly, it is not meant for the masses – whether we talk about design or retail price. Clearly, it is not the average vision of a classic timepiece. Yet, the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon is quite a watch, especially from a technical point of view. It is bold but mechanically fascinating. This year, Jacob & Co. unveils an exceptional new version of its uber-complicated piece, the Astronomia Tourbillon Clarity Octopus.

8 years ago

HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years”

Designing a collection as wide and as important as IWC’s jubilee collection must represent quite the challenge. It needs to be new and innovative, but also remain true to the brand’s deepest roots. I think, by and large, that IWC have done a fine job. Not only does the diverse, 27-watch collection have a clear, unifying theme, thanks to the richly lacquered white and blue dials, but the selection of models is a good balance of their greatest hits and historically significant models. The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” fits into both camps quite neatly. The important reference  has enjoyed ever-increasing popularity since it first made its way back into the IWC catalogue in the early ’90s. And just quietly, I think this limited edition hand-wound Portugieser is one of the most attractive takes on the model ever released. Hands down. It’s got everything you need, and nothing you don’t. Offered in either steel (1000 pieces) or red gold (250 pieces) versions — both with white dials — the watch is effortlessly, unashamedly classic. The black printed sans-serif Arabic numerals, railroad-style minute track, seconds dial and IWC logo are crisply printed, and given plenty of space on the…

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8 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Bausele Terra Australis “Red Back”

When Felix first took a peek at the Terra Australis made by Aussie watch company Bausele, what he saw before him – to paraphrase his own words – was the preliminary sketch before the finished painting. Fast-forward to today and those metaphorical pencil marks are now barely visible under brushstrokes of paint, with the brand officially launching the flagship model late last year. While much of the design hasn’t changed from that first look prototype, from initial impressions, it’s easy to see that the overall quality of finish has improved by leaps and bounds. To kick things off, Bausele have four special versions of the Terra Australis available. Limited to 50 pieces each, all with varying colour combinations for their five-pronged outer case, dial, hands, and strap. However, if that isn’t enough, customers can individualise their very own version on the Bausele website. With 850 different combinations possible. One of the initial four versions is this variant, dubbed the “Red Back”, with its blacked-out styling and not-so-subtle pops of white and red, demanding attention. Eagle-eyed viewers of TV series Prison Break may have already spotted it on the wrist of brand ambassador Dominic Purcell’s character Lincoln Burrows in the recent…

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8 years ago