LIST: Andrew’s top 5 watches from SIHH 2018, including Panerai, IWC and JLC
This was my 12th consecutive watch fair, so you’d think I’d be used to it by now. But once again, the pace of our unforgiving SIHH 2018 schedule, the endless tracking around in circles at the Palexpo opposite Geneva Airport, and the maelstrom of releases left me – on day four – somewhere between giddy in love and carsick as hell. This was the state I made these choices in, and Felix and I were still debating our choices right down to the last minute. I was far from resolved, and I don’t think he was either. So, let this be another version of my usual preface that these were just the first watches to leave a strong impression. There will be many more to unveil during the year. And I can already tell that Justin and Sandra’s presence this year opened up my scope – their WhatsApp thread is a constant source of new inspiration as they post iPhone pics of watches the other one missed. Panerai Luminor Due GMT 45mm – Grey starburst dial, beige lume on the sandwich dial and on the hands, lush brown strap, cream contrast stitching, high-polished finish on the case and crown guard…
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My art deco admiration and monochromer habits have always had me on Team Casablanca considering Franck Muller’s selections. But it is party season after all, so I am easing up on the classic palette and eyeing off a completely different proposition. The Color Dreams collection is a parade of watches with one exuberant mission: to liven up proceedings. There’s nowhere to run for introverts with the complete spectrum of appliqué, exploded rainbow numerals — each one in a different colour — the dial is bolstered with as saturated a hand-stitched crocodile strap, from as wide a vista as the hours’ tones. On this occasion I’ve got the gloss orange croco strap. Pink and red are winsome alternatives but the green option would also be a fine match. At a quick first glance, the dial’s all childlike playfulness, but closer inspection reveals that Muller’s hallmark sunburst dial, with its lacquer and mother of pearl, has a depth to it, by means of a reference to the Crazy Hours collection. There is a ghosting of smaller, guilloché cut or embossed numerals around and across the dial, but just underneath the main numerals; the hours display time in the customary correct order though. This…
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT is, in marked contrast to the Polaris Automatic, a complex beast indeed, with (as you could probably guess) both chronograph and world time functionality in the one case. It’s not the first time we’ve seen this complication-combo, as the very impressive Calibre 752 pops up in sportier parts of their collection. But while previous incarnations have been quite modern in their style, the bi-compax chrono and world time are well suited to the old-world inspired looks of the Polaris. Nothing vintage about the case though – this 44mm titanium number is thoroughly modern. And, sure, all the extra information on the dial does complicate the cleaner design codes of the Polaris line, but the key features are there: the range of varied dial finishes, the applied trapezoid markers, the black and ocean blue colouring. And all that extra dial detail makes for a much richer on-the-wrist experience. With its functional design, wearer-friendly lightweight case rated to 100m, solid 65 hours of power reserve and undeniable charms, the Polaris Chronograph WT is a strong option for fans of JLC’s complex offerings who crave a more classic look.
