Introducing: The Montblanc Star Legacy Chronograph Rieussec (Live Pics & Pricing)
A signature Montblanc complication gets new life in a new collection.
Introducing – Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second Limited Edition (Available Online Only)
It seems that the online world is really taking over the luxury market, which apparently also includes the watchmaking industry. Indeed, Jaeger-LeCoultre is about to propose a limited edition exclusive to its online boutique – meaning that you won’t find it in stores. Based on the surprising Geophysic True Second, a “Seconde Morte” watch introduced in 2015, we now have a limited version that features a specific blue dial. Meet the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second Limited Edition – and be sure you’ll have your phones and laptops connected…
VIDEO: The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver splashes down
Some people say that a leopard can’t change its spots, and you know what? Some people are wrong, as the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver clearly proves. The French watch brand earned their stripes with an impressive array of aviation watches, centred on the square, cockpit-inspired BR 03 case. Well, it turns out that this large, striking design works just as well at depth as it does at altitude. The BR 03-92 Diver is a remarkably smart underwater repurposing of the brand’s famous form. But really, not too much had to be changed. A bezel was added, as was a screw-down crown. The trademark Arabic numerals were replaced with simpler (and heavily lumed) hour markers. It’s clever design – something B&R excels at – and I think this new diver will have an important role in the collection going forward. I can’t wait to see what versions will be coming down the pipeline in a few months’ time. Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Australian pricing Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver, $5400. For more information, see here.
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HANDS-ON: The Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph
Earlier this year I had a chance to have a look at Montblanc’s pre-SIHH offerings in scenic Wyoming, including this smart new evolution of the TimeWalker, the TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph. There are two big changes to this 43mm sports chronograph; let’s start with the most obvious first. The dial. Instead of the black or silver tones of the existing TimeWalker chronos, this time we get some added vintage style, in the form of the ever-popular ‘panda’ dial (so named because the black on white layout looks a little like the endangered bear). The matt dial finish has a slight creamy look, in line with the retro vibe that’s going on here. The small seconds subdial has the inlaid Montblanc star. You’ll also notice the ceramic bezel is now fixed, and shows a tachymetre scale instead of a 12-hour readout. All told, these changes result in a strong, high-contrast look that’s always popular, and has been used by many (many) brands over the years. If you’re eagle-eyed, you may have noticed that this is now called the ‘Manufacture’ chronograph, and for me it’s the movement, the Calibre MB 25.10, that’s the really exciting development. This new movement is a column-wheel chrono…
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WHO TO FOLLOW: @A_Collected_Man
Silas Walton (@A_Collected_Man) is the founder of A Collected Man, an online platform based in London, selling rare watches around the world. Silas loves beautiful watches, well-made clothes, and the inside of a Cessna 152 at 10,000 feet. Hi Silas, what’s your daily watch and why? During the working week I wear a vintage Patek Philippe 3940G. I have relatively slim wrists, love Perpetual Calendars and am fascinated by anything powered by a Micro-Rotor movement, so it’s a natural fit. So, what else is in your collection? Have you got a favourite? I’ve sold a lot of my earlier pieces, but I love wearing the new Omega Speedmaster ’57 in my downtime, and I’ve recently taken delivery of a Laurent Ferrier Micro-Rotor. It’s definitely competing with the 3940G for wrist-time. What do you look for, in terms of criteria, when buying a watch? I’m very grounded when it comes to buying watches. I’ve learnt that I’ve often regretted previous, impulsive decisions, so, first, I make sure I really, genuinely want the watch. I ask myself if it truly fits my taste. My watch is the only important accessory that I wear on a daily basis. It has to fit me…
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IN-DEPTH: The Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer
The story in a second: Maybe it didn’t get to the moon, but this Speedmaster still excites. Earlier this week, we ran a video review of the black-dialled Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer. Well, we liked it so much we thought we’d go into a little more detail, with the very different feeling grey-dialled version. The case It’s a Speedmaster, so no real surprises with the case. It looks and feels much like every other Speedmaster, except for its contemporary dimensions: it clocks in larger than your regular Speedy, at a not insubstantial 44.25mm wide, but it wears well, and sits comfortably on the wrist, thanks to a very reasonable sub-15mm height. The case is mostly brushed, with the exception of that sinuous polished line that stretches from lug-tip to lug-tip, adding an air of elegance to an otherwise utilitarian case. The dial Speaking of elegance, this dial variation is by far the dandiest. The black we showed you earlier is an undeniable classic, and there’s a white version, but this sunburst grey number is the real winner in my books. And not just because the grey is so mutable in the light. No, what really sets this dial apart…
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Weekend Round-Up: Jay-Z, A Disappearing Designer, And New Jersey Hot Rods
The week’s can’t-miss stories from around the web.
Buying Guide – 6 Great Annual Calendar Watches From Established Manufactures
Calendar watches come in a wide variety. Most of them are based on 31-day cycles and require a regular adjustment (5 times a year) to ensure that the correct date is displayed. An annual calendar automatically adjusts the indicated date, mechanically configured to display the different lengths of the months, and they require to be corrected manually only once a year (in the worst case depending on its mechanism). Typically more accessible than the perpetual calendar (which also takes into account leap years) and infinitely more useful than a standard calendar, the annual calendar offers a lot of bang for the buck.
Buying Guide – 6 Great Annual Calendar Watches From Establishes Manufactures
Calendar watches come in a wide variety. Most of them are based on 31-day cycles and require a regular adjustment (5 times a year) to ensure that the correct date is displayed. An annual calendar automatically adjusts the indicated date, mechanically configured to display the different lengths of the months, and they require to be corrected manually only once a year (in the worst case depending on its mechanism). Typically more accessible than the perpetual calendar (which also takes into account leap years) and infinitely more useful than a standard calendar, the annual calendar offers a lot of bang for the buck.
HANDS-ON: Starry-eyed for the Montblanc Bohème Day & Night
The petite Montblanc Bohème Day & Night isn’t exactly bohemian, nor are any of Montblanc’s timepieces really, but as much as this watch has all the signs of studied fine watchmaking, the viewer has to acknowledge the Day & Night is a little romantic. For all Montblanc’s credibility, hard luxury can still have a softness, expressed in this case by a pristine silvery-white guilloché surface, floral Arabic numerals, and a miniature window on to the sky above. Through its dial’s crescent frame, the vista’s transformation across a 24-hour trajectory is illustrated in daytime in light blue with a dynamic golden sun, before moving into a dark blue at nightfall, decorated with a radiant old-world moon and its accompanied stars. Blued steel leaf-shaped and baton-shaped hands work in with the wistful sky tones. Usually Montblanc’s DNA is marked by a certain seriousness that women — who make up about 35 per cent of its customers and not merely as purchasers for significant men in their lives — are just as keen on expressing their horological choices. This watch has the elements of the dressy heritage-style timepieces we’ve come to expect from the house that was founded in 1906 and established on fine…
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