Review – The Patek Philippe 5320g Perpetual Calendar, and The Inspirations Behind This Vintage-Inspired Piece

At Baselworld this year, Patek Philippe introduced again a surprising watch, a piece with a unique look and a clear vintage inspiration – without mentioning a case to die for. For a few years now, Patek has accustomed us with a certain creativity, with watches that go out of the brand’s comfort zone (see for instance the controversial Calatrava Pilot 5524 or the Annual Calendar 5960A in steel). The 5320g Perpetual Calendar is amongst these special watches, even if here, it prompted a unanimously positive response. Today, we take a closer look at this vintage/military-inspired piece and also to the different watches that inspired its creation.

8 years ago

HANDS-ON: Seiko show their dark side with the Prospex SSC673P and SNE493P

Seiko has just released three limited edition black divers, and they couldn’t be hotter. We’ve already shown you the automatic SRPC49K, but there are two solar options on the table as well. The SSC673P is a stealthy version of the SSC618P we looked at a little while ago. It’s worth noting that in these images the 15-minute demarcation period on the bezel is quite pale. We shot a pre-production model, and I’m not sure if the colour will be the same on the final model. It measures 43.5mm across and is powered by the cal. V175. Seiko Prospex SSC673P Moving onto the SNE493P. With the now familiar black and orange colour scheme, this solar diver has a raised chapter ring that adds a nice amount of texture to the dial. The case is 43.5mm across, with crown (and guards) at three. It comes on a silicone dive strap. Seiko Prospex SNE493P Seiko Prospex SSC673P and SNE493P Australian availability and pricing Seiko Prospex SSC673P, $650; and SNE493P, $625, both limited and available in early 2018. Images by Jason Reekie. 

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8 years ago

VIDEO: Blacked-out beauty – the Seiko Prospex SRPC49K

Seiko dive watches are a perennial favourite. They’re tough-as, look the business, and have a history as long and proud as any. Whether it’s the coveted SLA017, or the classic Turtle, they’ve got a strong rep, and cult following. The Seiko faithful are going to be very happy with this latest limited edition – the SRPC49K, which we’ve taken the liberty of nicknaming ‘the night diver’ (I’m really hoping this catches on). We’re going to let these stunning pictures do most of the talking, but here are the details we have so far: The SRPC49K is a blacked-out variant of the Turtle, with a mix of matt and gloss finishes on the 45mm case, and a matching monochromatic bezel. The dial is classic Seiko diver, with the iconic Lumibrite plots, hands and that day/date display. There are the little details we’ve come to expect, like the Suwa ‘sword’ at 12, and the Prospex logo at six, but, really, it’s all about the colour. Orange is the order of the day, and not the sort of high-vis fluro orange you typically get on dive watches (having said that, the minute hand is pretty bright). No, the orange on display here is…

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8 years ago

Introducing – Atelier de Chronométrie AdC #5 – 1940s Style and Mechanics Brought Back in Hand-Made Timepieces

If there’s one thing I love about my job is to discover new watch brands. I’m always stunned by the level of creativity infused by independent watchmakers, from the Sci-Fi creations of Urwerk or the ultra-classic propositions of Laurent Ferrier (who can do nice things together…) One brand we recently discovered at MONOCHROME cumulates quite some intriguing specificities. It isn’t Swiss, it makes things in an ultra-traditional way, whether for the design or the manufacturing process, and it’s all about one-off pieces. This brand is Atelier de Chronométrie and their latest creation is the AdC #5, which brings back to present times the superb 1940s design and mechanics

8 years ago

VIDEO: A modern take on a classic – the Grand Seiko SBGR305

The belles of Grand Seiko’s Baselworld ball this year were three takes on the first Grand Seiko, a buttoned-up dress watch that managed to be both effortlessly timeless and very of-its-time, all at once. Grand Seiko released steel, yellow gold and platinum takes on the classic, but they also released a completely new interpretation, the SBGR305, a watch very much in the same vein, but with numerous contemporary touches, such as the larger 40.5mm case, the brilliant hard titanium case material (a proprietary, extra hard version of the lightweight metal), and the addition of a date. The dial, too, is what we’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko: crisp, with a fine, hammered texture that’s hard to beat. So if you like the old stuff and the new stuff, you’ll like this one. Grand Seiko SBGR305 Australian pricing and availability Grand Seiko SBGR305, limited to 968 pieces, $10,400

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8 years ago

INTRODUCING: The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military

A history born on the open ocean. Ulysse Nardin gained fame for marine chronometers, found in the pockets and on the wrists of many of the world’s navy captains in the 19th century. The Marine Collection has since become the brand’s most emblematic. However, renewing the focus and direction of the collection, earlier this year UN added the streamlined Marine Torpilleur Chronometer. And with SIHH 2018 just around the corner, they’ve unveiled another inclusion to the Torpilleur family. One that is less the officer and the gentleman of its predecessor and more the rough-and-ready adventurer of the high seas. Forging forward with a more modern focus is an upsized 44mm stainless steel case. With a thinly pronounced fluted bezel, it follows the same curves and lines of the original Torpilleur. Only now it’s matted-out with a sandblast finish. A look that when combined with the oversized onion-shaped crown, really flexes the military vibin’ muscles of this new edition. Water resistance is also maintained at 50m, thanks to the screw-down crown and a solid caseback engraved with a seafaring Torpilleur boat. There will be two dial options offered by UN, both limited to 300 pieces each. An eggshell white with lume-filled…

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8 years ago

In-Depth – Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1000m “Emperor Tuna” Ref. SBDX014 – The Japanese Kraken

Seiko’s reputation in the field of dive watches is hard to beat. While they may not have been behind the creation of the first dive watch, the contributions of Seiko in improving the concept of a timekeeping instrument for divers is immense. Many features that are now the norm for dive watches were created under the influence of Japanese engineers – Seiko even influenced the creation of the ISO 6425 standard for dive watches. So, with over 50 years of innovation, over 50 years creating professionally oriented watches… that’s half a century of know-how that has been infused in the watch that we’re reviewing today, the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1000m Automatic Diver SBDX014 a.k.a the “Emperor Tuna”.

8 years ago