When Sci-Fi and Tradition Meet – The URWERK UR-210 Amadeus
When you think URWERK, you immediately have in mind Sci-Fi, space-crafts, ultra-modern design, sharp and bold shapes, unusual display of the time and haute-complication. Like them or not but admit it, URWERK watches are not standard. They create strong emotions on us, in a way or another. However, tradition and ancestral techniques are not words that you would usually place next to URWERK… Until the brand came with this unchained watch, mixing a century-old craftsmanship with their signature bold design, the URWERK UR-210 Amadeus.
German based Archimede is one of those small brands that quietly go about their business, sticking to their niche and making some excellent watches with minimal fuss. And while their catalogue offers a full suite of products, from dress to diver, it’s pilots that they’re best known for. And while Archimede’s design has evolved a little over the years, fundamentally it holds very true to the WWII-era aviator’s watches. The latest addition to the collection is a GMT, housed in a reasonably sized 42mm steel case that’s quite slim at 9.2mm thick. The second timezone is displayed via a red sword-shaped hand that refers to an inner 24-hour scale — a nice implementation that echoes the ‘Type B’ style of pilot’s dial. Powering this GMT is an ETA 2893-2, which is quite a solid offering at this price point, especially when you factor in the high quality of the case (side note: Ickler, the company behind Archimede is primarily a case manufacturer) and sapphire crystal. As you’d expect with a pilot’s watch, the dial is neat and clean with a well-finished date window at six and an admirably restrained amount of dial text. While the Archimede Pilot 42 GMT doesn’t break…
Way back in January, one of the watches we were most excited to see at the SIHH was Montblanc’s high-end, Minerva-powered 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter in bronze. Partially because it’s a hot watch and partially because of its extremely limited production (only 100 pieces) we thought this would be the only chance we’d get to try it on. Luckily though, Montblanc also took the opportunity to release some regular production bronze models which are equally awesome, but not in quite the same league as this Villeret piece. Make no mistake, the calibre MB M16.29 is the star here. The manually-wound monopusher chronograph movement is truly one of the nicest in the business. With its traditional architecture and column wheel layout, little has changed to its design or production since the 1930s. In fact, the only thing that’s new are the red-gold coloured movement components that are a perfect match for the case. And while it might be reasonable to assume that the case is the most noticeable feature of this watch, the biggest takeaway for me isn’t the case per se, but how the whole watch comes together as an exercise in tonal complement rather than contrast. The bronze case, the starburst Champagne dial…
