FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 23rd June, 2017

It’s that time of the year when we start making Jon Snow/winter puns, but they’re getting a bit long in the tooth, so I’ll try and find a new, more topical climate-based pun. Actually no, all I can think of is climate change gags, and that’s all a bit too real. So I’ll just stick to watches. Speaking of, here’s what’s happened this week, for your Wind Down pleasure. What happened That auction train just keeps on rollin’ – the latest significant piece to go under the hammer is a Jackie Kennedy Onassis Cartier Tank, which sold for $379,500 at Christie’s. The watch has a great story, as it was gifted to Kennedy by her brother-in-law Prince Stanislaw Radziwill in 1963. And honestly, it’s just a great piece of Kennedy history – because what would she wear if not Cartier? Peter Speake-Marin, founder of Speake-Marin watches, announced that he’s leaving the brand he founded in 2002. This should be somewhat contextualised by the fact that Peter hasn’t been a stakeholder since 2008. Peter’s recognised as one of the nicest guys in the business, so it’s sad to see him go. But we haven’t heard the last of Peter, who’s moving on to a…

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9 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC – a modern take on military style

Blancpain has an excellent history in dive watches, and among the most coveted are the military-issued pieces. In this already hyper-specialised niche, the MIL-SPEC I and MIL-SPEC II watches stand head and shoulders above the rest. These watches were first created in 1957 to meet the very specific needs of the United States Navy. In fact, if you really want to nerd out we’d highly recommend reading the actual military specification – MIL-W-22176A(SHIPS). The most distinctive feature of this watch is the hemispheric moisture indicator on the bottom half of the dial. It’s this feature that Blancpain has celebrated with the MIL-SPEC, and that lies at the heart of its charm. Before we dive into the current model, let’s first look back at the Tornek-Rayville. Created to meet MIL-SPEC II, this watch is a great example of what makes watches in general, and vintage in particular, so cool. Roughly 1000 of these watches were issued to the United States Navy in the early 1960s, as part of a tender won by Allen Tornek’s company Rayville. Now, American naval divers had been using the Fifty Fathoms for some time, but the Buy American Act required government bodies to prefer US-made products.…

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9 years ago

Introducing – Oris Big Crown Limited Edition PA Charles de Gaulle (the Aircraft-Carrier, not the President…)

A bit of French pride for today… Indeed, as some of you might know, I’m French and what Oris is releasing today is somehow resonating in me. Based on the military roots of the brand, which is represented by the Oris Big Crown collection, the brand is introducing a limited edition made to honor the crew of the aircraft carrier Charles de Gaulle, the French Navy’s flagship. This is why I’m proud to show you the new Oris Big Crown Limited Edition PA Charles de Gaulle (the Aircraft-Carrier, not the President…)

9 years ago

Almost Vintage… Christie’s To Auction Online Three Of The Earliest URWERK Watches

Almost vintage… Indeed, this might be a bit provocative, however do consider that what you see here is a time-capsule, enclosing 20 years of history. That’s right, the everlasting young and creative brand URWERK is celebrating this year two decades of bold and unchained horological creations. So, well, vintage… Maybe not! Extremely collectible… Most definitely, as Christie’s Watches Online is now having for sale three of the earliest URWERK watches, which is quite a rare opportunity to get your hands on a piece of the independent scene’s history.

9 years ago

HANDS-ON: Aggressively monochrome – the blacked-out Bulgari Octo Ultranero

With its intensely angular octagonal case, it’s easy to see why Bulgari’s Octo collection is a cult favourite. And the latest versions take the model down a darker path. We looked at the crimson-accented version earlier this year, and today we go even darker with the full-black Octo Ultranero. The case is the same as always – 41 mm steel treated with a black DLC, and rated to 100m. But while its red-and-black companion plays with contrast, this version offers nothing but black. The matt black hands and indices all but disappear into the equally black dial, and leave the case to be the dark and brooding hero. In fact, unless the light is hitting the inky lacquered dial at just the right angle, you’re going to have trouble seeing those sleek, skeletonised, dauphine-style hands against it. But legibility isn’t the main concern here. This watch manages to be both bold and understated, a difficult trick to pull off. The attention is on the Octo’s iconic Gerald Genta designed case. With razor-sharp lines and multiple facets, it’s a somewhat sinister play of light and shadow, reminiscent of a stealth fighter. Each of the many brushed black sides contrast or highlight…

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9 years ago

HANDS-ON: JLC’s mean machine – the Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic, now in black and pink gold

This Jaeger-LeCoultre is a great example of just how true the old saying about assumptions is. You see, it’s easy to pigeonhole JLC as producing only fine, delicate and dressy watches – classic Reversos, or smart vintage-inspired pieces, for example. And while it’s true that this style of watchmaking is their bread and butter, that doesn’t mean they’re not supremely well-equipped to belt out a truly excellent contemporary piece when they put their mind to it. This latest version of the Master Compressor Chronograph ceramic illustrates the point perfectly. This stealthy-luxe sports watch was released at SIHH with (appropriately enough) zero fanfare, but that’s OK, because the matt black ceramic case with pink gold details makes an impressive statement all on its own. Aside from the new colourway, not much has changed from when the piece was first released in 2014. The case is quite large at 46mm, and the crown features the patented compression key, which, when activated, means the case is good for 100m of water resistance. The calibre 757 movement includes a chronograph and a second timezone, and is good for 65 hours of power reserve. In many ways this watch is similar to a supercar. Sure,…

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9 years ago