FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 9th June, 2017
Would you believe I’m winding down alone, in a Sydney hotel room, looking out over an exceptionally dreary parking lot? It would be sad if not for the fact that in a few short hours I’m going to be hanging with some of Australia’s finest watch nerds and some of Switzerland’s finest watches at a catch-up at The Hourglass. So don’t feel too sorry for me. This is also why it’s a shorter wind down than usual – I’ve got to make myself look pretty. What happened Citizen released a tourbillon. Yep, you read that right. And what’s even crazier is how nice it looks. The 42mm white gold number has a rough price of $90K USD. Citizen now owns quite an impressive portfolio of brands, so maybe they’re moving up the horological ladder? What really mattered I’ve been banging on for years about how two-tone watches are due for a comeback, and I feel pretty comfortable calling 2017 as the year the return happened. And no, it’s not just because every other brand is leading with a gold and steel stunner, or because Becks is sporting a brand new look. It’s because no lesser institute than The New York Times…
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When I hear the words Bell & Ross, I immediately picture square watches inspired by flight instruments – watches like the iconic BR01 or its smaller cousin, the BR03. And I’m sure I’m not alone. There is, however, another side to the Bell & Ross family. With classic looks and traditional round cases, the Vintage collection draws its inspiration from the history of aviation. Designed to meet military specifications set by the armed forces, this collection has legibility, functionality and precision high on the list of “must haves”. Given these requirements, it’s not completely unexpected that this, the latest vintage-inspired chronograph, bears a resemblance to other brands’ versions of flight spec’d chronographs. Having said that, the DNA of the Vintage BR V2-94 is still very much Bell & Ross (even without the square case). The dial draws parallels to their Instruments collection, with large white numerals on a black background and distinctive sword hands, which are slightly slimmer on the Vintage Chronograph. The counterweight of the central seconds hand is stylised as a silhouette of a plane, a new feature that Bell & Ross says will be found on many future releases. Underneath the dial beats the BR-Cal.301 automatic chronograph…
Editor’s Note: In the hurly burly hustle of endless new releases it’s sometimes important to sit back in a Chesterfield or similar with an overfull glass of burgundy and let it all sink in. Rinse, repeat. What floats to the top of mind? What watch still hits you in the lungs like a chest mark when you see it? What never-seen-before technical advancement of this or that still tickles the brain and creates a tingling sensation in the wallet pocket region? Lastly, whose value is holding up on Chrono 24? Fire up the Bentley Jeeves, we’re heading back to Germany again… Put a group of serious watch collectors in a room and ask them to name the most important modern chronograph in the world right now, and we’re confident the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph will end up top of the heap. A large part of the Datograph’s appeal is the movement, which surpasses mere functional engineering and moves into the realm of sculptural beauty. But it’s not just the watch’s technical and aesthetic virtuosity that’s earned it such universal acclaim – it’s the context it emerged from. As you may know, A. Lange & Söhne is a brand with old roots in eastern…
We’ve already given you a pretty thorough look at Rado’s pint-sized and patriotic Captain Cook, but while still photography is great at showing the finer details – that sunbrush finish and crisp dial printing, for example – video gives you a much more holistic picture. If you want to know how that dial looks under the glass box sapphire (hint – it looks awesome), or whether that ceramic is too shiny, then video is the way to go. And if you’ve been tossing up the pros and cons of regular vs limited, this could help you seal the deal – I know I had to try the bracelet on for it to win me over. Finally, in case you’re wondering, I’ve got a fairly large wrist, around 20–21cm – or a touch over 8 inches if imperial is your jam.