INTRODUCING: When less is more – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton
Following on from their somewhat controversial releases at SIHH, Girard-Perregaux has surprised us with not one but two new pieces to add to their already brimming Laureato collection. Originally launched back in 1975, the then cutting-edge, quartz-powered Laureato was designed by an Italian architect who, the story goes, drew his inspiration from the dome of the famous Cathedral in Florence. With its octagonal inner bezel and integrated bracelet, the watch bore more than a passing resemblance to other very recognisable ’70s designs (read AP and Patek). These two new skeletonised pieces seem to be doing their best to shake that association and delve back into the architectural design roots of the Laureato. The 42mm wide, 10.88mm thick Laureato Skeleton is available cased in either stainless steel or 18k pink gold. It sports GP’s own in-house GP01800-0006 skeletonised movement with a 54-hour power reserve and small seconds – a movement most recently seen in last year’s skeletonised 1966 model. Derived from the GP01800, the movement has been upgraded with a variable inertia balance, ensuring greater precision. But the most obvious addition is, well, what’s been left out. The openworked design seems to be well done, and the movement has been galvanised with an…
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Editor’s Note: For all that the watch industry speaks about timelessness and classic design, it rides the winds of fad and fashion just like any other consumer-focused business. But that’s not always the case; there are some models that remain impressively unchanged, and pure to their origins. Watches like this simple and sophisticated Grand Seiko Automatic Hi-Beat 36000. The story in a second: Grand Seiko’s limited edition Hi-Beats are hot property, but the regular production SBHG005 is, not to overstate things in any way, a masterpiece of understated excellence. Most high-end watches are instantly recognisable as luxury objects. Your watch makes a statement about who you are and what you value. Rolex says one thing, IWC another. This is, of course, the point. Most people, upon spending thousands of dollars on a watch want you to know you’ve spent thousands of dollars on a watch. And then there’s Grand Seiko. Grand Seiko is the Japanese watchmaker’s premier line, and for years it was quite difficult to get your hands on outside of Japan. This rarity, combined with the line’s often-conservative style and the ubiquity of Seiko’s more accessible offerings meant that the statement you made wearing one was about rejecting the usual…



One of the watches I was most looking forward to seeing in the metal at Baselworld was the 43mm version of the distinctive Heuer 01. Now, I’m quite the fan of TAG Heuer’s skeletonised and modular take on their classic Carrera, but there’s no denying that at 45mm across, it takes certain amount of wrist or confidence to pull it off. That the 43mm version will suit more wrists is good news, the fact that there were new colours in the offing only sealed the deal. There are quite a few new Heuer 01 43mm models, including versions with solid dials, and the very cool black ceramic model. But I was most drawn the titanium models with skeletonised dials, offered in three colourways: black, blue and a particularly delicious brown. All three colours are offered on a titanium bracelet, alligator strap or rubber. Size and colour notwithstanding, these new Carrera Heuer 01s are virtually the same as previous versions – Heuer 01 movement, 12-part modular case and that richly skeletonised dial. Having said that, the changes in size and colour make a huge difference. First of all size. The original version clocks in at 45mm across, and wears high. Sure, the…
Editor’s Note: Few stories have caused as much angst in the T+T office as Ceri’s searing, take-no-prisoners guidelines for what we can and cannot wear with black tie. Not only are our suits/shoes/cummerbunds not up to snuff, but it turns out our watches don’t cut it either. Read on and prepare to re-evaluate your formalwear life choices. Don’t say we didn’t warn you. First up, although we’re not here to get all pedantic on your suit, it would be negligent of us not to remind you of a few guidelines, slash hard and fast rules, worth bearing in mind. Pay attention, please: The rules part one – the suit 1. A regular suit is not black tie Your workwear is not black tie (unless you’re a butler. Wait – are you?). A sports jacket and chinos is not black tie. Get the right suit for the job, take good care of it, and it will last for years. 2. Your suit needs to fit That doesn’t mean you can’t buy off the peg. Just get it tailored once you do, so that the jacket hugs the torso, the sleeves show about a centimetre of shirt cuff and the trousers just brush the…