Bring a Loupe: A Colorful Rolex Ref. 6234, A Vacheron Constantin Ref. 4906, A High-Beat Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox, And More
This is your Bring A Loupe for May 6, 2017.
This is your Bring A Loupe for May 6, 2017.
Over the last few years, we have reviewed quite a few brands and their manufactures. From the largest ones, for instance those owned by groups like Swatch Group, Richemont or LVMH, to the smallest ateliers of independent watchmakers. Recently, we had the opportunity to visit another type of manufacture, one that is not part of a brand but rather a supplier. The name is probably familiar to you already as they are one of the most prominent high-grade movement makers for third-parties; Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier.
If you’re familiar with Raymond Weil it should come as no surprise that music is a recurring theme in their collections. From homages to iconic performers such as The Beatles and the late, great David Bowie, through to watches made to honour particular instruments – such as their Nabucco Cello Tourbillon – Raymond Weil definitely has a soft spot for this most harmonious of the liberal arts. Which brings us to the Gibson Les Paul. Just as horology has its holy grails, the world of guitars also has its undisputed icons. One such legend is the Gibson Les Paul. Since its conception in 1952, this solid-body electric guitar has had an important role in defining the sound of many of the most important musicians of the 20th century. And the shape, with its single cutaway, is an integral part of the visual language of rock’n’roll. While it’s difficult for a watch to capture the spirit of a sound, Raymond Weil has certainly done a solid job evoking the look of the Les Paul. The hour track is recessed, with a circular motif resembling strings and fret-like applied indices. The Gibson logo at 12 resembles the headstock, and the chronograph details are…
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When we evaluate a watch, one of our key criteria is clarity. Things like: Is the watch legible? Can you read the time in an instant? But clarity isn’t everything. There’s something to be said for mystery, and for artful concealment. And that’s exactly what makes the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Perpetual Calendar Sapphire so appealing. On the one hand, this watch lays itself bare, showing off the innermost working of the perpetual calendar complication. On the other, the use of a smokey sapphire dial adds just the right amount of ambiguity. The result is compelling. And, for an RRP of $30,890 in 18k red gold – so’s the price.
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Built for the tennis court, tested on the tennis court.
The new in-house caliber will get people talking about more than this watch’s size.
At first, the new MeisterSinger Salthora Meta X sounded like a big surprise… But not one that we were expecting. In short, MeisterSinger was into single-hand watches with a classy / urban design but not into sports watches, and even less into dive watches. Yet, when you think about it for more than 5 seconds, you understand that this Salthora Meta X is just the natural development of the concept and one of the coolest ideas the brand could have had – and overall, an impressively well-thought timepiece. Let’s see why.
A familiar watch gets a special look for a special retailer.
Please welcome the BBBBB… Yes, 5 B’s for a new model that will definitely create some noise again. Three of these B’s are known, as referring to the the Black Bay Bronze. Add to that a fourth B, for Blue, the color used by a certain maison for its special editions, a maison with a fifth B, as in Bucherer. So you have it, following the tradition of special editions dressed in blue, Bucherer and Tudor are now unveiling the brand new and exclusive to the retailer’s stores Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze Blue.
We did not see this one coming. At all. You’re looking at a Tudor Black Bay Bronze, freshly decked out in a particularly regal shade of blue. Before you get on the line to your local Tudor dealer, you should know there’s a ‘but’: this isn’t a regular production Tudor. It’s a special collaboration with venerable jewellery retailer Bucherer, who have been trading in some of the world’s finest watches since 1888. This Tudor is the latest addition to Bucherer’s ongoing series, the Bucherer Blue Editions (which also includes blue timepieces made by the likes of AP, IWC, Piaget and Moser, to name a few). So, unless you happen to be near a Bucherer store, finding this blue beauty is going to be tricky. If you can manage to get your hands on one, we’re pretty sure it will be worth it – the Bronze looks incredible in blue. While the original is an exercise in complementary tones, the BBBB (or should we add an extra B in for Bucherer?) is all about contrast. The blue is rich and deep, just like the bronze of the case and bezel, giving the watch a completely different feeling – more luxurious, less utilitarian. The trademark…
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