Watch Dandy

Bring a Loupe: A Full Set Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona, A Stunning Eberhard Scientigraf, A Blue Universal Genève Compax, And More

Let’s start this week with a big name: the Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona, easily one of the most coveted in vintage watches. The one we have is not only in nice condition, but comes full set directly from the original owner, according to the auction catalog. So we can expect some heated action in a Chicago auction room next week. We have also rounded up a great Eberhard Scientigraf, and a blue Universal Genève Compax, among other picks. This is your Bring A Loupe for April 21, 2017.

Hands-On – Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Double Retrograde

Maurice Lacroix unveiled a new version of its Masterpiece Double Retrograde at Baselworld this year – and the watch has never looked so good. Here is a hands-on look at this tastefully executed facelift with a new clous de Paris dial that is definitely more modern and chic – and still with this great display, complex and legible at the same time.

VIDEO: Apples to Apples episode 4, Jaeger-LeCoultre vs Cartier – cutting shapes

If there’s one key take away from this year’s new watch releases, it’s that brands are playing it safe, with simple, round, steel watches being the order of the day. But, thankfully for the non-conformists out there, not everyone marches to the beat of the circular drum. Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre in particular have long and proud histories of making shaped watches. So for the latest episode of Apples to Apples we thought we’d let two of the most recognisable shapes in the business square off against each other. It’s time for the JLC’s mighty Reverso to meet Cartier’s legendary Tank. Who will prevail?

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EDITOR’S PICK: The IWC Pilot’s Chronograph – one of the classics

Editor’s Note: One of the most popular watch types is the steel, black-dialled chronograph. It’s a a versatile, utilitarian classic and almost every brand has their own interpretation of the theme. IWC’s is their perennially popular Pilot’s Chronograph, a mix of military style and casual elegance. It’s an undisputed classic. If you’ve been paying even marginal attention to IWC over the past seven months you’ll have noticed it’s on a bit of an aviation kick, refreshing the entire Pilot’s family and adding some tantalising novelties like the limited edition ‘Le Petit Prince’ edition of the Big Pilot and the ingenious Timezoner. Impressive as these are, they’re not the bread and butter of IWC’s Pilot’s line. That falls to fresh faces like the Mark XVIII, and updated stalwarts like this one, the Pilot’s Chronograph. If you were to look quickly at this new reference (IW377710, or IW377709 on Santoni leather) next to the outgoing IW377701 you could be forgiven for thinking they were the same watch. But take another look, and numerous small tweaks become apparent. The most obvious is the removal of the altimeter-style triple date window, which in turn allows for the IWC branding to be moved back to the three…

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Friday Live: We’re Kicking Off HODINKEE Friday Live Tomorrow Morning At 10:30 AM ET (With A Special Guest Too)

Tomorrow we’re launching a brand new video series – Friday Live. At the end of each week we’ll be coming to you with a live video stream straight from the HODINKEE office (or somewhere else around the world) with a group of our editors reviewing the week in watches and looking forward to what lies ahead. Sometimes it will be just us and other times we’ll bring in interesting guests. To get things started, we’ve got something extra special planned.

We’re Kicking Off HODINKEE Friday Live Tomorrow Morning At 10:30 AM ET (With A Special Guest Too)

The Designer’s Designer’s Watch – A Look Back At Braun And The Rebirth Of A Few Classics

Ever heard of Dieter Rams? He was the design director of Braun from 1955 to 1995, the decades when it built its über-purist appliances, record players, radios, clocks, and watches. Even if you’ve never used one of his creations, you’ve definitely felt his influence in the objects you see and touch every day. We got in touch with the watch and clock designer that worked with Rams, the man behind the no-nonsense AW 10 and AW 50 watches, which were just reissued at Baselworld 2017, to get a little more insight into these truly timeless designs.

RGM Introduces the “Chess in Enamel” For Its 25th Anniversary (And It Is American-Made!)

American-Made watches… Certainly a dream for many of our readers on the West side of the Atlantic. Watches that are really made (meaning with parts manufactured and assembled in the US) are rare, too rare honestly – and the Shinola-gate is not going to help this issue. However, such a dream is possible, with a brand named RGM Watch Co. – for Roland G. Murphy. The manufacture, which will turn 25 this year, celebrates this jubilee with a first watch, inspired by an also American-Made pocket watch, the RGM “Chess in Enamel”.

The Beauty of Automatons by Jaquet Droz, with the Loving Butterfly (Video)

Jaquet-Droz tells us a story of love and trust with its latest automaton, the Loving Butterfly, which is inspired by the sketches drawn by an android automaton known as “the draughtsman“. We take a look at this truly spectacular and poetic creation brought to life by refined artisanship and hand finishing.