Historical Perspectives: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Compass Camera, An Ultra-Compact 35mm Camera From The 1930s

This is one of the most unlikely and wonderful little machines to come out of Jaeger-LeCoultre, ever. You may have read about the Compass Camera before, but if not, it’s a compact camera that JLC made in the late 1930s, and at the time it was one of the most technically advanced cameras anyone had ever made. Machined out of aluminum, it’s a 35mm film camera, with rangefinder, ground glass viewfinder, exposure meter, and a ton of other bells and whistles, all in a package just 2 3/4 inches x 2 1/4 inches x 1 1/4 inches.

9 years ago

Meerson Introduces the Mutiny Chronograph – A Limited Production Bespoke Watch Collection

Creating a watch brand from scratch, especially when you don’t rely on new funding processes such as Kickstarter, is sort of a daring gamble in times of “crisis” and “slow demand”. However, that’s exactly what Alexandre Meerson did 3 years ago, and not with an affordable piece, but with a complete collection of luxury watches, with a quite unique tailor-made idea. After the Altitude and the D-15 GMT collections, Meerson comes back with a third piece, this time entirely focused on the Limited Production / Bespoke concept, the Meerson Mutiny Chronograph.

9 years ago

VIDEO: The most important Omega releases from Baselworld 2017

Most of the Basel buzz around Omega has focused on the very excellent (and likely very hard to get) Trilogy limited editions – and rightly so. But these three spot-on reissues represent only a fraction of Omega’s 2017 c0llection, which is jam-packed full of new variants and completely new models appearing across their key collections. Not only do we have new versions of the Speedmaster and a revamped Aqua Terra 150m, but there’s a completely new regular production Railmaster and a particularly bold Planet Ocean that goes by the name of “Big Blue”. In short, there’s something for everybody.

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9 years ago

EDITOR’S PICK: Is the Oris Divers Sixty-Five 42mm the best heritage reissue of recent times?

Editor’s Note: Last year one of the fiercest inter-office debates was about the perfectly composed heritage piece that is the larger Divers Sixty-Five from Oris. The perennial question was, “bronze or steel?” Andrew was firmly in the bronze camp, I was steel. Read on to find out why.  Story in a second No risk of second-album syndrome here – this slightly larger take on the Divers Sixty-Five is a worthy, if slightly more mainstream, follow-up to the original release. There must be something good in the water at Hölstein, because Oris has been on fire lately. The 100% mechanical brand has always had a solid following thanks to its no-fuss divers and pilots pieces, but even though the watches represent excellent bang for buck, they’ve always been a little under the radar. That changed last year with the release of the original Divers Sixty-Five, a pitch-perfect reissue that hit all the right notes. Well, Oris has been busy making hay while the sun shines. There are now several new dial versions of the original model, as well as a 42mm limited edition bronze piece. Today, though, we’re focusing on the new steel 42mm version. The case To be honest, I was quite surprised…

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9 years ago

Found: A Gold Lemania Chronograph Formerly Owned By Winston Churchill

Winston Churchill loved his watches. We know that because we’ve seen some of his favorite pieces up close, including his beloved Breguet pocket watch which he nicknamed the Turnip. We’ve also seen correspondence between Churchill and none other than Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, regarding wrist sizes and engravings. Mr. Winston Churchill would later receive Rolex’s 100,000th chronometer, a gold Datejust with his coat of arms on the back, as a gift from Wilsdorf himself. The watch we have here is another chapter in the story.

9 years ago

Hands-On: The Ralph Lauren Minute Repeater

The latest complication from Ralph Lauren is a minute repeater, which seems at first glance like a risky undertaking bordering on foolhardy. After all, there are to this day quite a lot of vocal objections to the idea of Ralph Lauren doing a watch collection at all, much less one that includes such an elevated complication. At the same time though, I’ve always felt that if you are going to accept the idea of Ralph Lauren as a maker of luxury watches at all, you have to give the idea its head, so to speak, which means the question is not, does Ralph Lauren have a right to make a minute repeater, so much as it is, has Ralph Lauren made an interesting minute repeater?

9 years ago

Ulysse Nardin Goes Vintage, with the Super-Cool Diver Le Locle

As of this year, you’ll see several extremely nice watches from Ulysse Nardin, all paying homage to the great past of the brand (and believe us, since its inception in 1846, the brand has done A LOT). Recently, UN launched a watch as a tribute to the great Ludwig Oeschlin (a watch that will soon be under our loupe) and now, it is something drastically different, quite unexpected from the brand; a vintage dive watch… Surprising at first, but the result, in the name of the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle, is properly cool.

9 years ago

In The Shop: A 1975 Rolex Reference 1625 ‘Thunderbird’ in Yellow Gold, A 1960s Doxa SUB 300T Searambler, And A 1940s Longines Reference 5774 For The Marine Nationale

This week, we’ve assembled an assortment of vintage watches covering all categories. Whether it be a mono-pusher chronograph from the 1950s with an amazing set of lugs or a charmingly-patinated Longines made for the French navy, each piece possesses transformative details that set it apart. From sporty to elegant to historically important, any of these pieces would be a delight to own and wear. Read on for more details.

9 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Blue” lives up to its name

While one of the key trends of Basel 2017 is a move towards more wrist-friendly dive watches (see exhibits A and B), there’s no doubt that big and bold is still the name of the game. Omega’s latest PO, the “Big Blue”, delivers on both fronts, thanks to its whopping 45.5mm wide by 17.8mm high case made from bright blue ceramic. Why Big Blue? Well, asides from the obvious, it’s an homage to a super funky (and super collectable) Omega diver’s chronograph from the ’70s. This Big Blue follows on from last year’s release of the fully ceramic “Deep Black”, itself an evolution of successful ceramic Speedmasters, notably the DSOTM. From all this activity we can deduce that Omega is increasingly serious about integrating ceramic in a big way, well beyond bezels, movement components and the odd limited edition. And why not? If you’ve got the technical know-how and production capacity (like Omega does), you might as well use it. The case and dial of the Big Blue are made from pigmented zirconium oxide powder that’s sintered into an ultra-hard ceramic, then machined with diamond tools and plasma-treated to its final shape. It’s not just the case that’s impressive: the…

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9 years ago

LIST: 10 watches I’ll never forget from my first Baselworld

Editor’s Note: Andy Green has pretty much been part of the Time+Tide team since day one. But it wasn’t until 2017 that the stars aligned and he was able to attend Baselworld. And I think it’s fair to say that Andy had a quintessential first Basel. He was blown away, occasionally overwhelmed, but most of all I think he loved discovering new things and meeting the watchmakers he’s admired and the people he’s DM’d from afar IRL. Andy’s personal Top 10 list really reflects this. Sure, it’s about the watches, but the people behind the scenes are just as important. Hope to see you at Basel 2018 Andy.   H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds in Steel I’ve always been a big fan of H. Moser & Cie, and have been especially fond of their recent marketing campaigns. So, when I turned up to their stall and was told that for the first time, they had a new release in steel, I got pretty excited. This was my pick of the fair (which will come as no surprise to my IG followers). I just love everything about this watch: the stunning fumé dial, the curvaceous crystal and the famous Moser ‘less is more’ approach. As a steel…

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9 years ago