Watch Dandy

We analyse a lot of watches on a daily basis. Being able to identify the difference between a sales pitch and a practical benefit to the end-user is something we take very seriously. We see swathes of new brands attempting to differentiate themselves from their peers through a variety of creative strategies on the regular. But perhaps the most common area of manipulation is price. It is common now to hear an identikit spiel from the majority of new brands looking for crowdfunding. It is so common to offer luxury at an accessible price that it’s about as effective as shouting into the wind if you’re trying to genuinely pique the interest of an informed watch aficionado. Collectors know exactly when the wool is being pulled over their eyes. How? If something is good value, what it actually costs is irrelevant to the sales pitch. Cost is most often used as a sales argument when there is a dearth of quality in the product itself. When the absolute cost of an item is front and centre in a marketing campaign, the word is more synonymous with “cheapness” than it is with “value”. What follows is a list of five well-priced chronographs.…

The post 5 of the best affordable chronographs — from quartz to mechanical  appeared first on Time and Tide Watches.

Editor’s note: I’ve got a real soft spot for the TAG Heuer Link — and indeed for integrated bracelets more generally. It’s such an evocative design for the brand, and one that is due for a serious comeback (if everything else ’90s is an indication). So, have another look at the cool, clear lines of the latest Link in Cam’s review …  For some, turning 30 is a daunting occasion. It’s an age when we’re expected to be mature and take life seriously. And just getting yourself up and down from a chair now takes effort and involves a distinctly loud groan. It’s not all bad though. And in the case of the new TAG Heuer Link it can actually be a very good thing. First released in 1987, the Link began life as the TAG Heuer S/EL (short for Sports Elegance) and throughout the ’90s was one of their most successful models. In recent years, however, the Link was overshadowed by the other big players in the TAG Heuer catalogue. At least that was until last year when it was relaunched in the women’s collection, and this year it’s the men’s turn. Now measuring 41mm, the case of the…

The post The sporty sleek TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5 appeared first on Time and Tide Watches.

Editor’s note: In 2019 heritage reissues are NBD. But back in 2015 the rules of the game hadn’t yet been nailed down. One of the standouts back then (and indeed now) was Oris, with their Divers Sixty-Five — it was a near perfect take. And one worth taking a second look at …  The story in a second: The Oris Divers Sixty-Five really could be a case study as to what a truly excellent vintage reissue should look like – all the elements are there, including classic good looks, fidelity to an historic model, contemporary convenience and credit card-friendly price. It’s an example of how the Swiss watch industry can, on occasion, be bailed up by David, the little guy. An obscure mid-’60s diver was not meant to be any kind of talking point at the 98-year-old Baselworld fair. But it was. And the small-sized 40mm watch had a big impact. It was one of the surprise hits, and one of the best vintage reissues of the fair. But if you think about it, we shouldn’t have been too surprised that this watch came from Oris. The independent brand certainly has the capacity to produce quality watches, and this one…

The post Still one of the greatest – the Oris Divers Sixty-Five appeared first on Time and Tide Watches.

Fifty years ago, the automatic chronograph was born. Depending on which press release, it was the effort of either Zenith, Heuer (et al) or Seiko. The truth lies somewhere in the middle, and the former two brands have been busy celebrating in the traditional Swiss way (limited editions and, presumably, cheese). Seiko, though, has been quiet on the chronograph front, which is, at first glance, odd. Chris Hall, over at QP Magazine, clearly thought so, and put together this story on the matter. He goes into history, corporate politics, R&D and even — occasionally — watches. The real reason why there won’t be a watch to honour the breakthrough of 1969 is that for Seiko, the real breakthrough of 1969 wasn’t the 6139 Speed Timer. I won’t spoil the story here, but if you’re holding out for a celebratory Pogue (who isn’t?), click through to find out why you might be holding on for a good while longer …

The post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Seiko won’t be producing a 50th anniversary chronograph appeared first on Time and Tide Watches.

The buying and selling of second-hand watches has traditionally been an unglamorous, possibly even seedy, affair. The traditional image of that side of the industry has been one of tight margins, hard sales talk and the ever-present threat of fakes. Well, in the last few years it’s a part of the business that’s been undergoing something of a quiet revolution.  The space is now dominated by the internet, and by large corporate parties like Chrono24 and WatchBox. Richemont has even gotten into the game with their acquisition of Watchfinder. There’s no doubt that this shift is rapidly changing the how of buying a used watch. But you might be wondering why — well, the answer is simple: there’s a lot of money at stake. Head to Blackbird Watch Manual for Elizabeth Doerr’s excellent take on this rapid expansion. 

The post RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the future of the secondary watch market looks like appeared first on Time and Tide Watches.