HANDS-ON: Glashütte Original go all out with their contemporary Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar
As far as complications go, perpetual calendars are typically classically styled, verging on the stuffy, depending on how well they’re done. Not that there’s anything fundamentally wrong with this – after all, fine watchmaking thrives on tradition. But I can understand the desire to shake things up a little, and throw down some contemporary styles, which is exactly what Glashütte Original have done with this limited edition take on their Senator Excellence PC. Fundamentally, this watch is the same as the ‘regular’ model, a nicely sized 42mm model, with a big panorama date at four (hence the name), moon at seven, and day/month and leap year indicator across the top of the dial. Where things start spicing up is how the dial (or lack thereof) has been rendered. The centre of the dial is open-worked, letting the finely guilloched mainplate shine through, framed by the matt black section, which frames all the functionality and leaves some space for branding. It’s a cool look, and one that’s in the brand’s wheelhouse, with a look that’s reminiscent of the PanoInverse. You get a hint of the inner workings, with the odd pinion and ruby poking out, but it’s also not fully open-worked…
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If you had any doubts about Panerai’s position as kings of the deep, their SIHH 2019 release catalogue would have dispelled them. Panerai’s hero watch is, of course, the Submersible. It’s one of the brand’s most interesting designs, as it honours their historically important case shape (cushiony, with a fairly famous crown guard), while adding a very handy bezel and some more contemporary lines. This year sees Panerai tweak a few more details, playing more with smaller sizes and interesting case materials. Here are our top picks. Panerai Submersible Carbotech 42mm – PAM00960 Carbotech is, without a doubt, a cool material, and you know what, it’s still just as cool in a smaller 42mm case. Panerai Submersible 42mm – PAM00959 This is a more classical Panerai execution, with its steel case. But even here there’s something quite special — the pebbly, grainy grey dial that somehow reminds me of shark skin. Panerai Submersible BMG-Tech 47mm – PAM00799 Just quietly, this might be my pick of the bunch. It’s big, and it’s also very complex. Not only is the bezel Carbotech, but the case is made from Panerai’s fancy BMG-Tech material. And that makes for a pretty awesome combo.
Editor’s note: In the second part of our year-long reviews, Andy tells us what it’s like to Hulk out for a year. Sun’s getting real low … Swiping the debit card on this purchase wasn’t an easy decision. Being someone constantly surrounded by watches, I was more than aware of the endless list of great options within this price bracket. Now, don’t get me wrong, there were some very big temptations along the way, but a Rolex was something I’d been working towards for a little while, and just over a year ago, the time was right. Wearability has always been my number one criteria when purchasing a watch, so for me, a Submariner felt like the right choice. It ticked all the usual boxes in terms of functionality – but there was a specific reference that I’d been heavily flirting with. As much as I love the traditional black bezel Submariner, when put side-by-side with the green, it felt a little too safe for my liking. The green Sub, on the other hand, is one of the most ‘daring’ designs released by Rolex in their current collection, and of course – it shared my last name! My first impression…
Editor’s note: Typically, the watches we review are in our possession for a few days or, maybe if we’re lucky, a few weeks. Sometimes the relationship lasts a little longer than that. Today we’re going to revisit two reviews that were a year in the making. Kicking off with my TAG Heuer … For those who know me and my taste in watches a little bit, the fact that I own a TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 typically comes as a bit of a surprise, as there’s a perception that I like the simpler, smaller things in watch life. For those who know me and my history in watches a little better, the fact that I’m rocking a big, bold, skeletonised chronograph raises no eyebrows at all. But personal preferences aside, if you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to spend some quality time with the Heuer 01, you’ve come to the right place. My first impression was … whoa, that’s a whole lot of watch. I first saw the Heuer 01 when it was released, back in 2015. It was a watch that was presented as the face of Jean-Claude Biver’s ‘new’ TAG Heuer, and, boy, did it look the part.…
Since Davide Cerrato took the gig as Montblanc’s top watch guy, the brand’s timepiece offerings have been steadily ramping up, becoming more focused and more appealing. To my mind, Montblanc’s SIHH 2019 saw the brand in high gear, on the inside track and with the intensity of a winner. Two hero collections and a range of watches to appeal to a wide range of tastes. Here are our five picks. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere LE Last year’s complicated two timer was already a good-looking beast of a watch, and this year the Geosphere’s gone green, making it even more Hulk-like. Montblanc 1858 Chronograph While it might not have the same incredible engine as its Minerva brethren, the 1858 Chronograph, with its bronze case and mossy green dial, is one undeniably attractive piece of kit. Montblanc Heritage Automatic While the 1858 family was all about the green, the freshly minted Heritage line is looking dapper with its copper-y salmon colourways. Add to that the complex dial construction and you’ve got a winning proposition on your hands. Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar Montblanc’s meteoric re-emergence into serious watchmaking was its aggressively priced QP. Since then, it’s become a staple of the collection, and this…
