Bring a Loupe: A Diamond-Dial Patek Philippe Ref. 2526, A Breitling Premier Ref. 788, And A Zodiac Sea Wolf
This week’s round-up of vintage watches from around the world.
This week’s round-up of vintage watches from around the world.
Few are the microbrands that have genuinely convinced us, but E.C.Andersson is definitely one of them. This Scandinavian watch company has created several interesting, well-executed sports/tool watches, including North Sea II and Calypso, which combined a cool design, solid cases and overall accessible prices. Today, the brand is releasing a new model named Denise, a watch that they see as an “all-season tool watch”, or a dive watch that can be brought onshore for exploration.
Editor’s note: It should be noted, right up front, that the ‘petite’ in this watch’s name refers to the subsidiary seconds dial, not the overall scale of the piece, which is reasonable and substantial all at once. So, with that caveat out of the way, onto the review … In these days of the never-ending vintage revival, it seems that every brand has to have a heritage collection, regardless of whether they have any actual heritage. That’s not a problem Tissot has to deal with, as the brand dates way back to 1853, a depth of history that’s reflected in the strength of their current heritage lineup. The latest member is this handsome fella, the Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde, a hand-winding hero based on a 1943 design, which is entirely suited to the modern day. The dial There’s an interesting story about this reissue, and it centres on one word on the dial. The Heritage Petite Seconde is a tribute to an antimagnetic watch from 1943. When the watch was originally shown at Baselworld this year it featured a line of text reading ‘antimagnetique’ under the wonderfully retro, sweeping Tissot logo. As you can see, that word is no longer there, likely…
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Move over Brooke Shields, the Blue Lagoon has a new star – Moser’s Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon. And, as with all of Moser’s concept line of watches, there’s almost nothing to get in the way of the typically excellent fumé dial. The Blue Lagoon takes its name from the dial colour which, like all of Moser’s watches, is rather difficult to fully capture on film. It’s iridescent, vivid and compelling. It’s also a very greenish blue, which sits in the middle of Moser’s mild-to-wild spectrum of dial colours. And that, at least to my mind, is just the right place to be. Now, this watch isn’t as wilfully obtuse as their masterful Swiss Alp Minute Repeater — here you get hands (three of them) — more than enough to let you tell the hours, minutes and seconds. This version is a white gold case (there’s also a red gold option if you’re so inclined) and clocks in at a respectable 40mm x 10.7mm, in the simple-yet-complex Endeavour case, with its fancy case profile and Moser’s typical grippy, ergonomic crown. Flip it over and you’re treated to an uninterrupted view of the HMC 200, Moser’s sturdy automatic that’s nicely finished,…
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This Greek dive watch goes way back for inspiration.
And no, not everything has diamonds on it.
Most watches that really spark my interest have either Swiss or German roots, but on rare occasions, a piece will surface from an unlikely place. I recently reviewed the Classic Enamel PS-801-CE from American watchmaker, RGM (based in Pennsylvania) and I’m always impressed with the company’s in-house calibres and old-school craftsmanship. America was once a hotbed for watchmaking with brands like Hamilton, Waltham, Elgin, Ingersoll and Westclox, but acquisitions, bankruptcies and European competition have all but shut down American production. While RGM represents a resurgence of American watchmaking with several in-house calibres, a much younger company in Los Angeles has been producing an in-house movement since 2016. Weiss Watch Company has only existed for a few years and initially relied on Swiss movements for American-made cases, but their in-house Calibre 1003 has made them a bonified American watch brand. Let’s take a closer look at the Weiss 42mm Limited American Issue Field Watch, designed and manufactured in the United States.
James went to SIHH, Jason stayed home. You decide who won.
The HYT H0 Time is Precious watch encapsulates a powerful philosophical message. Similar mechanically and structurally to other members of the H0 family, the “Time is Precious” model is unlike anything we have seen before at HYT and ventures down a more artistic path to represent the fundamental philosophical musings that inspired the brand to […]
Over the last few years, Cartier’s watch releases have been consistently impressive, alternating between savvily commercial and outrageously stunning. This year we saw that strong trend continue. Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph The big news was the addition of a chronograph to last year’s wildly popular new Santos. In addition to complication, this model adds some not insignificant bulk. Cartier Tonneau Deceptively simple and unerringly elegant, this quartz-powered Tonneau is a real looker, and as someone with a fairly large wrist, I was surprised how good it looked on me. Cartier Tonneau Dual Time Skeleton This watch is a classic case of why you need to see real-life pictures of a watch (or even better, the actual watch). When I saw the press release renders I was a little underwhelmed. In real life? I was blown away. Cartier Santos-Dumont This simple, slender quartz watch was one of the most pleasant surprises of SIHH, eminently wearable and Cartier design at its most pure. Cartier Santos de Cartier Skeleton If you’ve ever wanted proof that Cartier is interested in growing its fanbase, this is the watch. On the one hand, it’s classic Cartier — the skeletonised Santos has been a staple for…
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