Sunday Rewind: A Visit With Milan’s King Of Luxury Vintage
Nobody does it quite like Max Bernardini does it.
Nobody does it quite like Max Bernardini does it.
Last but not least, to end our series that aims at deciphering the world of online watch marketplaces, we’ve decided to talk to the most “hype” of them all (let’s be honest, credit where credit is due): HODINKEE. What started as a hobby and a sheer passion for watches by Ben Clymer has now grown to a large magazine and an e-commerce website focused on watches and everything related to watches – and for the latter part, not without generating debate. For some, editorial and commercial activities shouldn’t coexist. So, in order to give full transparency on this part, we leave the stage to HODINKEE’s COO, Eneuri Acosta.
Editor’s note: For a little under two centuries, Ulysse Nardin have been making marine chronometers fit for the captains and commanders of the ocean. In recent years, however, with watches like their Freak and Executive Skeleton collections, they’ve quickly propelled themselves to the forefront of watchmaking — being the first to use the innovative material silicon in their movements. The Marine Chronometer Torpilleur combines the best of both those worlds, so without further ado … Story in a second The Marine Chronometer Torpilleur shows a new, focused and driven face of Ulysse Nardin. I’m going to start this review talking not about mechanical watches, but naval warfare. In the late 19th and early 20th century, naval dominance was all about massive floating fortresses, with thick plate armour and a massed battery of cannons. These ships, which culminated in the dreadnought class of battleships, were the undisputed masters of the seas. To counter these ungainly behemoths, the Torpilleur, or torpedo boat, was developed. Streamlined, fast and modern, the Torpilleurs were armed with the latest technology — the self-propelled torpedo. These low-cost boats were intended as battleship-killers and presented a real threat to the dominance of the big ships. Now, do you really…
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September was very much a mix of cars and watches, which understandably go hand in hand. The strongest commonality between the two hobbies? The collectors — and their unwavering passion. To kick off September, I made my way down to the German Auto Show 2018, put on by the Volkswagen Club of Victoria. I know enough ‘car people’ to expect to see some nice watches, and this event was no exception. A piece that jumped out amongst the vintage Porsches and VWs was a 2018 Rolex GMT-Master II in two-tone Oystersteel and Everose gold (reference 126711CHNR). This piece was an instant favourite of mine, back when I saw it in Basel earlier this year. The warm rose gold works incredibly well with the steel, and it’s the kind of watch that photos cannot do justice — you need to see it in person. Later in the month, I found myself getting stuck in to another car event, which also delivered some interesting timepieces. I bumped into Daniel, who was sporting his prized vintage Omega Speedmaster Mark II Racing Dial. Being a car guy, Dan is naturally drawn to vintage chronographs, and the colourful racing dial on this Speedy was the icing on the…
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The week’s can’t-miss stories from around the web.
As you’ve seen from our previous episodes, the online watch market isn’t just a trend anymore. It is now well established and multiple heavy-weight companies are now playing market-makers. Yet, we talk about specialized firms, with one and only activity. More surprising are names such as Hodinkee, Worn & Wound or Revolution. All of them started their lives as watch magazines and have now added e-commerce to their portfolio of activities. To understand why and how watch-media can legitimately create value from such a business, we will first talk to our good friend Wei Koh, founder of Revolution and The Rake.
Editor’s note: What is it about an all-black watch that really gets the heart racing? I mean, it’s a neutral colour, like white, silver, or grey, yet just by adding a heavy dose of toner, an entire watch can be transformed. Case (and dial, and strap) in point, the black ceramic Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm. A luxury sports watch made, well, sportier. Since its surprise reveal a little over a year ago, the Laureato has become an increasingly significant player in the luxury sports category, thanks to its crowd-pleasing good looks and impressive mechanics. SIHH 2018 showed us that the Laureato is an increasingly important part of GP’s lineup too, as handsome new chronograph variants dominated their latest batch novelties. But I was particularly taken by this black ceramic-on-rubber offering. Announced late last year, to me this Laureato really lives up to its sporty pedigree, thanks to its hard-wearing 42mm lightweight ceramic construction and rubber strap. Now, typically I’d advocate for the bracelet variant, especially on a integrated case style like this, but here I think the rubber really works. It makes the Laureato far more casual, and really wearer-friendly, and better honours the casual spirit of the design. While the bracelet…
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Watches. Turns out they’re not (just) for telling the time. As horology’s true believers (that is, you lot) will no doubt be aware, watches are more than mere objects. They’re a hobby, a community, and – depending on how far gone you are – a way of life. But this interest doesn’t come without its risks. Once it becomes known that you’re *into* watches, people will start asking you questions, sometimes in public settings. Picture the scene: You’re at a nice dinner party with some friends and vague acquaintances – I’m essentially imagining Cluedo (Clue, for our American friends). Your buddy, let’s call him Colonel Mustard, says, “I say, Professor Plum, why don’t you tell everyone about the watch on your wrist … how much did it cost again?” And rather than go all Professor Plum, in the library, with the Rolex, you tell a story. You know the story, the default ‘this is why I like watches’ story. We’ve all got one. So, in the interests of community service, we’re going to share ours. Justin’s Seiko in the rough This is an interesting one, as I try to avoid going down the watchgeek rabbit hole in most instances, unless…
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Seldom seen in the U.S., this is one of the most accurate watches ever made.
Seldom seen in the U.S., this is one of the most accurate watches ever made.